To Loches

May 31, 2008 to June 1, 2008

Another day, another set of chateaus. Crossing the broad Loire over its 11 arched stone bridge, we made a zigzag circuit of the flat lands south of the river, following one flooding tributary after another and touring the great chateaus at Chambord and Cheverny. When I think back on this part of the tour, the first image that comes to mind is of biking behind Rachael down the long lane leading up to the improbably ornate Château de Chambord, watching it slowly come into focus and gain detail as we approached it. we toured the interior, as we did with all the great chateaus we visited, and then moved on to Cheverny.

We ended the day at Montrichard on the Cher, where we spent the evening. We arrived at the end of the day, with time to cross it on foot and walk along the river and admire the glow of the evening sun on the bridge while we waited for restaurants to open.

Leaving Blois, we crossed the Loire over the Jacque Gabriel Bridge. It looks ancient, but dates back only to the early 1700’s when it was built to replace the older bridge washed away in a great flood. Parts of it are even newer, replacing arches destroyed in the Franco-Prussian War and both world wars.

The Château de Chambord, the largest of the Loire chateaus, was built by Francis I in the early 1500’s to serve as his hunting lodge.

The Château de Cheverny. Looking it up again now, I see that it will reopen to the public on May 19, presumably for the first time since the beginnings of the pandemic. Europe is coming back to life!

The bridge over the River Cher, Montrichard.

On the final day we finally worked our way out of Chateauland, beginning with a visit to amazing Chenonceau just a few miles down the Cher from Montrichard. It’s an astonishing place, completely spanning the River Cher. We toured the interior and then enjoyed lunch sitting on the bank of the flooding Cher, watching it rush through the arches beneath the chateau.

After that we biked south and followed the Indre upstream to Loches where we ended the day. Loches is a fascinating small medieval town, and probably my personal favorite overnight stop since leaving La Rochelle. We spent all afternoon visiting the chateau and walking the town’s narrow, steep streets. I especially remember the place for its steep-pitched, mossy roofs. A bit out of the way and off the tourist circuit, Loches is a place I’d love to revisit some year.

Stolen from the web, here’s another view of Chenonceau showing how it spans the River Cher. I can’t believe none of my photos of this, either from the banks or from inside the chateau looking out, have survived.

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Ride stats: 82 miles, 2,600’; for the tour: 658 miles, 19,500’

Today's ride: 82 miles (132 km)
Total: 585 miles (941 km)

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