It’s about the people you meet

Woke up early again, 4:45 AM seems to be a routine starting point. Breakfast was four packets of oatmeal, one more than usual due to the expected hills today. Brian started some coffee, I packed up, and we planned out today’s route. Seemed like 50 miles to Hindman was our only lodging option. We hit the road around 6:30 AM to 48-50 degree weather. Surprisingly, the chill didn’t feel bad, probably because I’m learning how to dress properly, and not just going out with lycra shorts and a short sleeve. The town of Lookout is where we started, and it was pretty beat up. A lot of these backcountry Kentucky towns seem desolate, but you know people live there. The houses, cars, bridges, boats, etc. seem like they’ve been there for decades, and likely will remain for many more. On the other hand, you’ll suddenly notice beautiful homes kept clean and tidy with Mustangs and Ford trucks. The diversity in wealth is almost night and day, and only a few miles apart from each other. About 10 miles in we stopped for coffee and breakfast. BP gas station has a $3 deal for a biscuit egg sandwich and coffee, so you know I went to town. I was feeling pretty caffeinated and full at this point, so as you’ll see below, I felt very, very good.

We had picture perfect weather once the hills came. Clear skies, no wind, and some chill in the air. Once you start up the hill, you warm up quicker than laying under covers with sheets tucked in under the mattress (power to the people who un-tuck the sheets immediately). We started to encounter dogs early in the morning. Brian warned some dogs bark right away, but others will stealth attack. I prepared my water bottle for easier access to spray when being chased. The first dog of the day initiated a stealth attack, and of all dogs, it was a German Shepard. I LOVE German Shepards, but this beast snuck off the porch, hid behind a car, and scared the shit out of me. I likely shat myself. I lost all composure and just bolted away. Seeing my reaction, I noticed I had to remain calm next time, and sure enough it paid off. We were probably chased 2 or 3 more times (I consider myself lucky compared to other people’s journals) but one instance in particular taught me a lesson. We had two dogs chasing us, Brian was ahead taking the wrath of both of them. Brian shooed them away, almost literally, and then I was the next target. I grabbed my water bottle and sprayed them, but you forget you’re still on the road, so just as fast as they were gone I turned and saw a car coming up the opposite lane. I had plenty of time to safety get back to my side, but now I’m aware of what needs to happen to stay safe in this type of situation. Definitely a learning experience that I’ll need for the rest of Kentucky.

I’m tired of talking about hills, so I’ll keep it short. There were three major climbs today, another cyclist said the sum elevation gain was around 6,000. I just throw on some music, keep my head down, and low gear it to the top. I don’t like stopping, and I always like a challenge. At the top Brian and I would celebrate with snacks. Mostly Milky Way bars and peanut butter. At the top of one hill, we had magnificent views, and rested here longer than usual to take in the views.

The next 10 or 15 miles flew by, we were pounding out some serious mileage at above average speeds. It felt great to be moving fast because we finally had flat roads. I noticed I don’t really like seeing what’s ahead of me, so I’m probably screwed in Kansas where you can see for miles and miles. We encountered one more hill before our break, and luckily it wasn’t terrible cause I had run out of water at this point. We ate lunch on milk crates on the shaded side of a convenience store, a typical spot of rest for us.

We booked into Hindman to stay at the Knott Historial Society Cyclist’s House, and encountered an enormous hill to the actual house. The owner, David, mentioned cyclists who can bike up the steep hill to the house fully loaded get to sign a special book. Challenge accepted. It was easily the steepest climb of the whole trip, and I was pushing pretty damn hard. I attempted it just to sign the book, but it was all worth it. We finally met David, and boy was he fantastic. Full blown suit, matching handkerchief tucked away neatly into his vest pocket, a walking cane, and a pocket watch dangling from the vest. His shoes were as shiny as the Kentucky sun, and he immediately offered a beer upon arriving. We chugged the beer, and got to chatting with David. Seriously one of the most interesting people I’ve not only met on the trail, but in my life. He shared endless stories of hosting cyclists over the years, and at one point in time was called the ice cream man for the huge bowls of ice cream he would prepare for bikers. Later he took us out to dinner, and low and behold it was a Mexican buffet!! This was exactly what I needed. I filled two huge mounds of rice, beans, sautéed veggies, raw veggies, quesadillas, taquitos, chicken, guacamole, salsa, chips, and cheese sauce. I was STUFFED, but soooooooooo happy and full. We made our way back and was fortunate to see some biker friends staying at the hostel too. David had a huge tent that easily fit 4 people, so we set up there next to Judy and Eric. David generously offered to do laundry, so now I have clean clothes again after a week or so since last washing.

We spent the the evening sharing stories and just chatting away. David was such a pleasure to have met, and he has offered cyclists an amazing experience while on the trail. I consider him a trail angel, for he offers so much of his life and stories and expects very little in return. What a wonderful experience I’ll never forget. Thank you David!!

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