May 4, 2025
4May2025
Every place grows on you when you stop for a while. Beynue is no exception. It has culture, friendly town folk, cheerful children, fruit and vegetables stalls, a central square where families gather in the cooler evenings, welcoming cafes and restaurants, small grocery shops selling necessities, clean streets where the dust is blown up by the desert winds. My rest day here today has been restful indeed. I slept for 12 hours straight before showering and going out for food. At a very friendly local cafe I ordered a chicken salad sandwich and an orange juice and an American I, and then I ordered it all again! I spent a restful afternoon doing various bits of admin including planning my arrival into Nukus. The train is the only option to cross the border into Uzbekistan.. reluctantly, I have no choice. I have a sleeper reserved, and can only hope they allow me to take my bike on board. Entirely by chance, I bumped into one of the friendly ladies who works at the hotel on her day off. I asked if she knew anyone who could change money to Uzbekistan Som. She confidently led me to a vegetable market where the women selling vegetables opened their purses which were bursting with currency! What luck. At the same encounter, I bumped into Ed, a cyclist from the UK going the same direction as me but much quicker! We were thrilled to meet each other and had a beer and dinner together, and didn't stop talking for 3 hours! Ed is on a train 3 days after me so we will go our separate ways tomorrow, bug I suspect he will catch me at some point.
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