May 17, 2025
17May2025
The third silk road city beckoned. I was keen to reach Samarkand and visit the historic centre of world learning from the 15th century, when the madarasahs on Registan Square were full of eager students learning calculus, science, astrology, medicine and other subjects. I made good progress out of Kattakurgan, and came across some unexpected climbs. Each climb was preceded by a sign warning of 12% gradients ahead, but in reality they were 4%... Someone has either got their maths wrong, or the transport ministry got a good deal on boards saying 12%! Traffic increased significantly on the smaller non-toll road that I took. Drivers here are not used to driving around cyclists so I am constantly bearing that in mind, and their inexperienced is often evident. I got to Samarkand and was pleasantly surprised to see wide tree lined avenues leading into the centre of town. I treated myself self to a nice hotel for a rest day tomorrow. After the usual afternoon snooze, I went food shopping and bagged some fruit and veg to compliment my meat-heavy diet. I then visited the Shah-i-zinda complex, which is a group of 42 beautiful mausoleums from the 13th century set amidst what is now the local cemetery. It was atmospheric and beautiful, and walking there took me through some quiet residential streets full of children playing outside. Not a smartphone in sight. After a quick dinner at a local home-restaurant, I made my way to Registan Square for the sound and light show and to see the mosques and madrassa that Samarkand is famous for. Stunningly beautiful! I spent a longer than expected time exploring Registan Square, before heading back to the hotel to watch some live football with the friendly staff, before calling it a day.
Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 1,384 km (859 miles)
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