June 1, 2014
Sancoins to Chateaumeillant: In which we pass many chateaux, and quite a few cows, too.
Last night was a mixed blessing. The hotel was one of those quaint old typically French establishments, last decorated in the 1990's and full of creaking floorboards, echoing plumbing, and narrow stairs. The guy in the room next to mine splashed around in the bath for the longest time before finally settling down for the night. At three AM he woke with a lot of loutish yawns, more water splashing and finally after much to-ing and fro-ing left at. 3:30. I was able to get back to sleep, and didn't waken until the Angelus rang at seven. Madam the innkeeper was just going out for fresh bread and croissants when I got downstairs, so I waited for her return. When she got back she dropped the croissants on the floor, but she picked them right up, dusted them off and served them. Five second rule, right? Anyway, mine was still warm, so I ate it anyway. I was out the door by 8:30 and on my way through endless cow pastures, except sometimes there were sheep in them, and the occasional goat or twenty. Berry is full of chateaux. They kept popping up on my ride. Some were in ruin, some well kept. The chateau in Meillant has been turned into a museum/amusement park. Some advertised their gardens. Any that were open charged entrance fees, and they don't habitually have parking for bikes, so I didn't visit any. I have been in many fine old buildings here in France, and even a few in Berry, so I don't feel like I missed much. I was much more interested to see the Roman ruins near St. Amond Montrond, but wouldn't you know, the town where the ruins of the old theater stand was sponsoring a motocross, and access to the ruins was blocked by parked cars, pedestrians and maniac motorcycle riders waiting their turn to go around the circuit. Tonight, I am in a BnB restaurant in Chateaumeillant. I was thinking of stopping in Culan, but there was no food available, as all the restaurants are closed on Sunday night. Here there is food, a reasonable priced room, and wifi. What more could I ask?
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