Radium Hot Springs - Vermilion Crossing, BC - British Columbia 2019 - CycleBlaze

July 16, 2019

Radium Hot Springs - Vermilion Crossing, BC

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My clothes did not dry in the humid air overnight. I've supplemented dry air with the hair dryer. I'm sitting here with damp shirt sleeves and my off the bike shorts. I'm not putting on the bike shorts until we leave. My bike tires are pumped up and the chain is clean. Water bottles are full. It's time for breakfast and facing the big climb. Today is Day 8 - we've had a long warm up, now it's time to do some real climbing. I hope my legs remember what that's about.

OK - off for breakfast.

Imagine my surprise when I opened the door and it was raining. I hadn't heard that at all. The clouds are socked in way down low. We sure aren't going to get a view. There was a lull in the rain at this moment, although none of our apps said rain . . . I guess we will get what we get. I've switched my rain gear to the top bag.

Breakfast was fine. Bacon, waffles, hard boiled eggs. Baked beans was a new twist. Fresh fruit. I believe I'm fueled. Now we are off.

We pulled out in a fine misty rain. Perhaps it was heavy fog. I'm not experienced with this much moisture. I live in the high desert. The temperature was 62 degrees. It was wet, but not cold. Thank goodness.

We started out climbing from the motel. There's no warm up today. All sorts of auto traffic was heading our direction, including double log trucks and double dump trucks. Everyone played nice and we had an adequate shoulder. At mile two was the hot springs. We had climbed just shy of 400 feet by then. We were definitely reeling in the elevation gain.

When we arrived at the entrance to Kootenay Park, Jim paid $39. for four cyclists. We let the lady know Jacinto would be along . . . eventually.

I had repeatedly said that I planned to ride alone today. Trying to climb at someone else pace just doesn't work, either faster or slower. I was enticingly close to Jim and Genny all morning. I would have stopped more often, but had I stopped I never would have caught up. We had one steep pitch, right after the dramatic cut through the stone. Then the grade backed off and was reasonable. Genny stopped only once on the climb. I was happy to catch up and take a rest.

Oren had recommended a Hammer product on the Utah trip, Anti Fatigue pills. I bought some, but hadn't used any yet this trip. If ever there was a day for help, today is the day! I took two before we left, two on the break, and two more at the top. Maybe they really are magic pills, or maybe I'm in great shape from a whole summer of cycling, but I had no trouble at all on the climb and felt good when I arrived at the lodge. I am relieved to be able to say that. I can climb, it's not my favorite thing, but I can do it. I like to be pleasantly fatigued when I finish the day. Not staggering tired. Today was a pleasantly fatigued day.

We had moderate rain off and on all day. I'm trying to think of how much real rain we had and I"m still thinking. Mostly it was just on the edge of "Do I really need a rain jacket, or can I take it off?" sort of rain. If it has to rain, that's the sort to have. The blue sky peeked at us a number of times, then it would cloud over again.

It was never too cold either. Jim has a thermometer and said it was 57 at the top of Sinclair Pass. We didn't get a sign for a photo, just a potty to use. Which I did.

I think it was an advantage for me that the weather was cool. I overheat easily. I didn't drink too much water since it wasn't hot. We stopped a couple of times on the way down. Jim and Genny took off their bottom layers. I continued on, expecting them to catch me. They never did.

This is an excellent bicycling road. We had an 8' shoulder the entire distance with brand new pavement. The only exception was the actual downhill. The shoulder was still wide, but there were many 3-4" wide cracks to watch out for. It would be too easy to drop a tire in one of those cracks.

The downhill was gradual, which was fine with me. I wanted to pedal and keep my body heat up.

I am very happy with my performance today. I always whine and moan about a big climb, then I do just fine. Jacinto says I need to climb more often . . . I guess I don't enjoy sweating as much as he does. We have Vermilion Pass tomorrow. We are already at a high elevation. We have 1,100 feet of climbing over 20 miles to the top. We are headed into Lake Louise. Probably it's going to rain again. I hope it is today's gentle rain and not the torrential downpour we had in 2016.

I arrived at the lodge ready to eat. I went right to the restaurant and made myself as presentable as possible under the circumstances. I walked up to the door, imagining a big bowl of soup. To my surprise, the door was locked, with no sign of people. I retrieved my bike and rode over to the store. The clerk explained that they have new owners now and are operating short staffed. The restaurant is open only for dinner, but they have food items in the store. I bought a beef stick for $2.50. It was delicious. I believe I will go buy another one.

I made us a reservation for dinner at the soonest possible time, 5 PM. Jim and Genny pulled up as I walked outside. They didn't want to eat that early, even though they were hungry. Genny said 6 PM. We settled for 5 PM.

I don't know where Jacinto is. He sent me a Strava, but didn't activate it. Looking back up the road, it is a wall of gray. I believe he is getting wetter than we did.

I'm going to the cabin now. We had requested an early check in and received it! Hurray! Wifi works only at the store or restaurant. Not at the fire pit in-between or at any of the cabins. It is quiet and beautiful here. It's a lovely spot to stay between Radium Hot Springs and Lake Louise.

We are resigned to the rain. I am a bit more optimistic than Jim and Genny.
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We remember cycling through this dramatic cut in 2016. The sun was shining then and we were headed downhill.
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What will we do!
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I wonder if fireweed would grow in Colorado? I love seeing it on this tour.
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In full rain gear mode. What fashion plates we are.
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The downhill had giant bicycle eating fissures.
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This shale was tempting to walk over and peel more off.
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The river is milky colored from the glacier run off.
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I'm liking that little bit of blue sky!
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Our bikes have that rain worn patina. Now we look like authentic bicycle tourists.
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The view across from the lodge.
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Jacinto’s photo from the top of the Pass.
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Today's ride: 40 miles (64 km)
Total: 348 miles (560 km)

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