Massa Martana to Otricoli: A Spectacular Day of Riding

October 8, 2015

Last night, our hostess at Fontana dele Pere invited us to have a "piccolo cena" (small meal) at 8pm if we liked. It was emphasized that it would be very small. We went down to the dining room and had a fabulous home made meal with the men of the farm (and some visitors) sharing the same meal.
We started with 2 kinds of wine and bottled water. Italian hospitality doesn't put limits on quantity - you eat and drink as much as you like. They are happy if you are happy and their hospitality is all about this.
Then out came the "prima patti"(first course) of home made Strangozzi pasta with a tasty tomato sauce fresh from her garden - and of course, fresh parmiagano reggiano.
This was followed by "secondo patti" with fresh bread, grilled eggplant, caulflower in butter and oil, salami and prosciutto (made on the farm produced by their pigs), local cheese and pate.
We finished with espresso and corncake.
If this is a small meal, we can't imagine what a feast would look like.

Delicious pasta. We had to be careful in our praise, as their instinct is to bring you more food.

Salami and prosciutto made on the farm and grilled eggplant from the garden.

A delicious meal and a memorable evening.

Our hostess and chef extraordinaire at Fontana delle Pere. She welcomed us to her home with much warmth and humour. She spoke no English and our Italian is limited, so we communicated with Google Translate. When I was explaining that we are on a cycling trip for a few months and that we tent as well - she replied that "Mama sends her sympathy!" We had many laughs and hugs.

Couldn't we learn from animals? Cohabiting in close quarters.

Any available space is fair game for birds and cats to relax.

As we approached the barn, this cat came running down the hill to have a visit with us.

On the outskirts of Massa Martana, we came upon this old church connected to a local Bar and now used as a residence.

We took a short detour off the route to explore San Gemini. Like so many places we have taken the time to visit, San Gemini is full of charm and history. Towns like this make you want to stay and explore longer. Barry wandered the streets of SG, but I took a break and watched the bike. We want to make it to Narni today, so we must press on.
The mosquitoes are back and attacking. The warmer weather and humidity is just right to bring them back.

We are riding on Via Flaminia, the ancient Roman road leading from the Adriatic Sea to Rome.

San Gemini is a worthwhile detour off the route, but like any towns in this region, it requires a climb.

San Gemini is known for its annual Medieval Games Festival, with jousting, etc.

As we approached San Gemini, we were so surprised to see a bike path - yeah. And what is the Rando that is advertised on many road signs. In this area, we have seen pelotons of road riders racing over the hills. Perhaps they are training for this?

Entering San Gemini through its historic gates. We think the medieval banners are in place for the festival.

Sometimes it is hard to take in the plethora of picturesque and historically significant places we have been able to see and come across by accident.

As we are in San Gemini during the lunch/siesta time from 12-3, the town is quiet and feels abandoned - except for the usual men sitting outside the local Bar. We know from experience, that by 3:30, the town will magically reopen for business and become a bustling town.

Love these medieval steps - slanted and shallow in height. They are very easy to navigate.

A poster advertising the Medieval Jousting competitions in San Gemini.

Chocolate gelato at a Bar - yum. Fortification before we climb the steep switchbacks to Narni above.

Looking back from Narni atop the cliffs to Narni Scalo and the area we have ridden through today.

Entering the city gates of Narni.
Seeing Narni from below is awe inspiring as you can see this medieval walled town set apart and atop the cliffs. It feels quite magical to go through these gates as we know that it will be amazing inside.

The sign shows that we are approaching Rome. Unfortunately, the camping sign doesn't help us as they closed for the season the beginning of September.

Approaching Otricoli - it's just a few more climbs before we reach our destination.

Narni is built on a hilltop and there is no space for parking. So, logically they have positioned the parking lots down the hill and provide an elevator for access to the village at the top. We think that the elevator should be a bit larger to accommodate our tandem!

A war memorial for the residents of Narni from the recent wars.

One of the parking lots positioned below the town of Narni.

Entering the Piazza of Narni is a bit of optical overload - there is much to look at. We liked the fountain and the crumbling facade of the building with pillars.

This plaque memorializes Giacomo Matteotti, a socialist politician, who was assassinated by the Fascists in 1924. He had accused the fascists of corruption and spoke out against them.

The Pharmacy (Farmacia) is in this historic building.

Looking down from Narnia - so beautiful, but it makes our legs tired just looking at it.

Barry enjoying the incredible view from a lookout at Narni.

These homes have an incredible view overlooking the verdant hills of Umbria.

This is Umbria at its finest - looking back at Narni and the magnificent green hills.

There are so many castles and fortifications tucked in to the countryside and on the hilltops. From Narni, we have a birds eye view.

A close up of one of the many castles we can see from Narni.

And yes, that is a bus navigating these narrow and winding medieval roads. At times, traffic is jammed up to the walls trying to let oncoming traffic pass - and then our bike tries to get through.

We are on our way out of Narni, and the views just keep getting better - but that does mean more climbing!

A tight fit - glad there isn't a car coming the other way.

Dinner at Hotel Umbria in Otricoli - Mary Ellen had pizza Caprisscioso (spelling?) with fresh prosciutto, olives, mushrooms, tomatoes and inexplicably half a boiled egg - delicious.

Barry had Montane - with lots of prosciutto, mushrooms, tomatoes and fresh tomato sauce. Who is this man who at home usually chooses vegetarian pizza? I'm guessing that the quality of the meat is so good and fresh, that it is hard to resist.

Finished the meal, as one must in Italy, with espresso. Typically, restaurants offer complimentary Limoncello (fresh from the freezer) which we enjoyed. We had thought that eating out in Italy was going to be expensive - but we each had pizza for 6 euros, wine for 4 euros and coffee 1 euro each. This is much more reasonably priced than at home.

We have truly had an amazing day of riding and seeing incredible sights like Narni and the views below. However, we are so tired. I just can't get up -it feels good to have showered and just lie on the bed at Hotel Umbria in Otricoli.

Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles)
Total: 1,982 km (1,231 miles)

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