Climbing all day - we must be in the Apennines of Umbria
Il Chiostro di Bevagna (The Cloisters of...) was a remarkable place to stay last night. The owners, Fabio and Valentine, have run this Albergo for 15 years and completely renovated this 16th century (with origins in the 14th c) Dominican convent. They provided an excellent breakfast buffet for their guests with unlimited coffee! The rooms are spacious and comfortable with views of the countryside. The remains of mid 14th century Frescoes adorn the walls of the main level and courtyard. Our bike was given one of these rooms for storage - most definitely the nicest digs our bike has known. It seems apt that our stay in this wonderful village was made even more memorable by our stay in this former convent.
Our bike is also enjoying its stay in Bevagna in the Chapter Room at the convent - what a view it has of this well known 14th century fresco showing Christ on the cross.
We knew that we had continuous climbing today and the route did not disappoint us. As soon as we left Bevagna, the road started to climb. Apart from a descent of 100 metres to Bastardo, the road climbed without mercy. Of course, we had to make up the 100 metre descent as soon as we left Bastardo. Typically, the large trucks, buses and cars were patient with us and gave us room.
Olive trees - Umbria is known as the "green heart of Italy" and we love the many shades of green - silvery green olive trees, dark green grape vines, verdant Cypress, etc.
We do not see any other cycle tourists on the roads. This surprises us as we thought that the fall season would attract cyclists. We do however see small groups of local roadies out for a ride. Unlike roadies at home who usually ignore us on our strange touring bike, these riders are very friendly and call out a welcome and usually "Bravo" or "Complimente" with a thumbs up for our efforts. The good part of seeing so few other cycle tourists, is that we never worry about finding accommodation. As long as they are still open, we know that we can find a bed. Rumour has it though, that another couple on a tandem is just ahead of us. At a few communities along the way, we have been told that we are the second tandem in a few days - but we have yet to see them. It is mid afternoon, humid, the storm is closing in and our legs are tired from the constant climbing, so we have decided to stop in Massa Martena at an Agriturismo, Fontana delle Pere. It will feel so good to shower and relax before the climbing begins again tomorrow. But we'll see what tomorrow brings as thunder storms are predicted for much of the day. Who knows, maybe we'll wait out the storms in our comfortable Umbrian villa set on a large family farm.
The Church of St. Mary of Peace in Masse Martana built on Via Flaminia, the most important Roman road connecting the Adriatic to Rome.
St. Francis (of Assisi) is an important figure and 800 years later, continues to be the focus of pilgrims and followers who come here. As always, his statue is accompanied by an animal - a pig in this case,
