A day in Assisi - Italy Bound with our Recumbent Tandem - CycleBlaze

October 4, 2015

A day in Assisi

What a wonderful day we have had in Assisi. We took the 9 am shuttle and spent the day wandering through this historically significant city.
We are lucky to be here early in October as the anniversary of Francis of Assisi's death (October 3, 1226) is the focus of celebrations all week. We arrived on this Sunday morning, which was the culmination of the week's proceedings, to find large TV trucks, much security and a big screen set up outside the Basilica. A special Mass was being held honouring the anniversary as well as the pilgrims who have made their way here from Rome on St. Francis'Way.
It is hard not to be impressed by the sheer scope of Assisi's well preserved historic buildings and its imposing presence on the hill, dominating the surrounding countryside. 5500 residents live in Assisi down narrow lanes in character filled settings with tourists and pilgrims always on their doorstep. It is interesting how the massive presence of security control the crowds. Nothing seems to be off limits and there is no charge for entry to any of the attractions, however, limits are imposed during mass. Sure, we are allowed to wander through, but in a controlled way. We did feel a bit uncomfortable sightseeing in the Basilica amongst the full congregation of people who were clearly moved by the service....so we left and came back later in the day.
As well,inevitably there is a strong touristic presence with shops, cafes and buskers - but we ignored most of this and took a self guided walking tour which filled the day.
On reflection, we felt that the hustle and bustle of Assisi and its beautiful buildings somewhat eclipsed the message of Francis and St Clare. Knowing that they lived and worked in the valley below in Santa Maria Degli Angeli, we will visit this area tomorrow before we head on.
The weather has been threatening to change all day to a windy rain storm, and thankfully it stayed away until we got in to the tent, and then the skies opened. It rained all night.
A good day.

Visiting the tomb of St. Francis in the underground level of the Basilica. Despite the crowds, the atmosphere and feeling here was reflective, somber and respectful. This tomb has been open to pilgrims and visitors since 1818. Francis' remains share the space with those of his four closest friends and followers as well as with those of his rich female patron Jacopa dei Settesoli. As the story goes, Jacopa travelled here to see him on his deathbed, but as she was female, she was denied entry. Francis welcomed her as "Brother" Jacopa to his bedside.
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Approaching the Basilica of St. Francis. These doors lead you into the lower Basilica, Romanesque and subdued with frescoes detailing the lives of Francis and Christ. The upper Basilica is resplendent with impressive stained glass and vibrant frescoed walls and domed ceiling.
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The commemorative mass today has special visiting clergy, dignitaries and costumed medieval groups representing historic events and regions.
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To enter the upper Basilica, you needed an official pass - we joined the crowds on the lawn to watch the televised proceedings.
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One of the many nuns (Order of St Clare) in attendance.
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And then, to bring it back to a different level - on the street, a busker dressed as a pilgrim made quite a good living posing with tourists.
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A puppy (believe it or not) in training.
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Looking through a narrow lane to the countryside below Assisi.
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Boy scouts sightseeing and on their way to the campground at the Youth Hostel.
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The Roman Amphitheatre, dating from the 1st century, is now a residential area with buildings from the 13th century. It is magical to walk around and above it on the wall as it reminds you that this was once an important Roman settlement.
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Rocca Maggiore (big fortress) provided refuge for residents in times of attack.
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Assisi is set high up on the hillside - looking down from the wall.
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Porta Perlici - one of the many gates remaining from the fortified wall around the city. We stepped out here to take in the view of Umbrian countryside. Assisi the city of "Peace and Goodness" twinned with San Franciso (named after Francis), Behtlehem and Santiago De Compostela.
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Creative solutions for drying clothes are on most houses and flats. Note the prevalence of flowers decorating the homes - every June there is a flower competition in Assisi.
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The Duomo - Cathedral of San Rufino. Named after Assisi's first bishop, martyred and buried here.
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This lion at the front door of the Cathedral is eating a Christian martyr - reminding us of the courage of early Christians.
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Francis was baptized at the Cathedral as a baby in the late 12th century and he also taught here, which is where Clare first saw him and was influenced by his vision and teachings.
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This statue of St. Clare , and the one of St. Francis, were created by Giovanni Dupre in 1888. In 1194, Clare, then a member of the nobility, was also baptized here at the Cathedral.
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Basilica of St. Clare (di Santa Chiara) is dedicated to the founder of the Order of the Poor Clares. Like Francis, her following required a larger church and this basilica was built in 1265 after her death.
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Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels in the valley below. This is the area where Francis lived and worked. Nearby is also the Church of San Damiano where Clare spent her days as mother superior of the Poor Clares.
We will visit this area tomorrow before we head south.
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Traditional stitchery is important to the history of Assisi. We saw some fine hand done stitchery. Today, tourist shops also feature monogrammed souvenirs with machine stitchery.
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Before you can blink, your name is stitched on a piece of paper. This will be my souvenir.
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I'd like to say that we planned to be in Assisi during this special time of the year - but we were just lucky.
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1st century BC, Temple of Minerva built by the Romans is distinguished by its columns, the bell tower that was added in the 13th century and the 17th century Baroque interior. It is interesting to seewithand the drains for bloody sacrifices.
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17th century baroque interior of Temple of Minerva. After seeing the frescoes in the Basilica of St. Francis and the simplicity of St. Clare, the baroque interior is quite surprising.
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Charmaine RuppoltThat's a beautiful statue!
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7 months ago
The frescoed arch leads to the original market.
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The frescoes are thought to date from the 15th century as the image of the turkey corresponds with its first seen image after the return of Christopher Columbus from the New World in 1492.
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One of the oldest holy buildings in Assisi - the Church of St. Stephen. It has remained in its original form and never modified - built by simple stonemasons, no architect and surrounded by fig and walnut trees.
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The entry to the simple Church of St. Stephen. Legend has it that on the day St. Francis died, the bells of this church mysteriously rang.
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St. Francis images and souvenirs are everywhere - even with this sidewalk artist.
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Stopping for a break at a vending machine shop "pay and go". Macchiatto for 50 cents and surprisingly good.
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This statue of St. Francis overlooks the Basilica and the countryside.
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The upper Basilica - lovely stained glass windows and spectacular frescoed ceilings and wall panels. The wall frescoes tell a story and follow the lives of Francis and Christ.
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Charmaine RuppoltWow! What an amazing interior of the upper Basilica! :)
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7 months ago
The colour of this ceiling fresco is incredible.
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PAX "peace"
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The lower Basilica - these detailed frescoes are incredible to see in person. So much to take in.
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More images of the frescoes in the Lower Basilica of St. Francis.
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Returning to the Basilica in the afternoon whrn the crowds and media trucks had dispersed.
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A few of the wonderful cats of Assisi.
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Assisi is visible for miles and has a commanding view
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Back at camp enjoying a bit of sun before the rains start and reading about Assisi and Umbria. Helinox Ground Chairs: "don't leave home without them!"
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