We are staying in Arles...for 2 reasons. We want to spend some time walking around the city and appreciate what it offers, plus we need a day off the bike. Both of us are feeling tired and need a day where we don’t have to pack up and push on.
Our hotel is positioned ideally for us. It is situated in the centre of the historic centre, our view is of the medieval fortified wall and the ampitheatre is a block away. It’s funny that we are having a day off however, as usually these “rest” days are more taxing as we walk all day, for miles and miles.... but it is a change.
We have purchased a Liberty Pass at the Tourist Office for 10 euros which grants us access to 4 historical sites, an art gallery and museum. What a great deal as most sites cost 5 or 6 euros. We will have our work cut out for us.
Cigales (cicadas) are a symbol of good luck in Provence.
Charmaine RuppoltI live in the D.C. area and every 13 or 17 years, we get an "invasion" of cicadas! They are big ugly flying insects - and are EVERYWHERE!!! I didn't know they can be considered a sign of good luck! :) Reply to this comment 8 months ago
Arles was the most important bishopric in Europe in the 12th century and this cloister became a UNESCO site in 1981. Much work has been done to restore it.
The stone carvings are not just decorative - their images tells stories of local legends, the life of Christ, and daily life. One interesting story shown is of how the St Tropheme saved the lives of 2 parishioners who were sentenced to death for slapping the face of a priest.
The stone water well tells quite a story with its deep grooves around the edges where ropes were used for centuries to draw the water. The whimsy of the figure labouring under the weight of the shelf above appealed to us.
Visiting Arles is synonymous with seeking out places where Van Gogh was during his time here. He painted between 200 and 300 paintings during his year here and we were able to do a walk that reveals 10 of these areas. Reproductions of the paintings are posted in the spot where he painted with a view of the object of his work. This is in the cloister gardens of Hotel Dieu Hospial where he stayed and received treatment. It looks much the same now.
Continuing our tour, King Constantine’s thermal baths was a massive place - about half of its remains and you can see the various rooms where the temperatures of the baths varied. The baths were for both men and women and one would follow a medically designed approach, spending time in different types of baths.
The only frustration here is that there is no information given and the sign at the entrance gives a much reduced English translation of the lengthy information in French. We will do more research when we get back to our hotel tonight.
Reattu Museum is a place we might have overlooked if we hadn’t had the Pass. This art gallery is housed in the impressive former Grand Priory of the Order of Malta along the banks of the Rhone. Jacques Reattu, an artist from Arles, bought the building in 1790 to live and work in His dream was to house artists to live and work here. After his death, his daughter bequeathed her father’s collection and the building to the city with the condition that she could continue to live there until her death and receive a small pension. Thus began this wonderful gallery.
Musee Reattu has many firsts - in 1965 they created the first photography collection in a French museum - and this continues to be a focus. As well, Picasso donated a suite of 57 drawings, including his most treasured portrait of his mother.
Reattu’s uncle was also an artist and this wonderful portrait evokes the time and period of dress well of Arles fashion.
As we have come further south, we have seen more cats - and this is a good thing for us. These two beauties were lazing on this hot humid afternoon on the deep stone window sill, stretching and affectionately grooming each other when the notion took them.
Jardin d’ete is situated just below the Roman theatre and is an oasis in the city. Van Gogh did paintings here and this sculpture panel honours his time here.
To put it mildly, the drama of visiting the magnificent ampitheathre was heightened by the approaching storm. The winds are building and thunder is rumbling - but we want to explore this site.
Arles historic centre has mostly remained intact through the wars and it is a treasure to explore. But it does take time to find the essence of its personality.
This is not a mirage - it is a modern building with reflective silver materials on the exterior. What a creative architect to take old elements of design in a modern building.
We have taken to the lower gallery as it is mostly covered, but you should hear the roar of the heavy rain pelting down. This staircase will quickly resemble a waterfall as the rain continues. As well, the curved lower walls are sending the water our way, it will soon be time to brave the elements as the water is spilling onto the lower level. The sound of thunder in this mammoth stone structure is unforgettable.
This “road warrior” seems to live in the Ampitheatre. Like us he is taking shelter but is not too pleased that we are here. What a character filled face this tough little guy has.
8 months ago