Feni to Chittagong - Bangladesh + India x 2 - CycleBlaze

November 7, 2010 to November 8, 2010

Feni to Chittagong

two nights in air-conditioned coolness

Riding south on the Chittagong Highway isn't something I relish, but know there's little choice. There are very few back lanes here on this narrow strip of the country. 

Awake early and out of the room by six, I head to the Highway and cringe before pedaling south; at the intersection there are revving trucks parked, belching out diesel fumes.

The main highway just south of Feni at around 6:30
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It gets better as I ride clear of the busy area and reach the edge of town. Here, trees canopy the tarmac and sunlight filters through the overhanging foliage and there's a wide shoulder to ride on, although once I spot a turnoff, I take it... and enter blissful cycling territory. It's so quiet.

The lanes meander, but I seem to end up back on the Highway after a short while, time after time. A few times it's a case of doubling back as my chosen route ends in a field. 

On the back lanes
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My computer reads over 20 km, yet I'm only 10 km south of Feni and there are fewer turnoffs to take now and finally accept that it's me and the busy N1 down to Chittagong.

The temperature is in the low 30s and I stop for cold drinks a few times, with crowds surrounding me as me as I do so. It's not a problem. Maybe after a month it will be - I'm quite chilled about this sort of thing. 

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The ride is 110 km and I only eat an orange during the ride. That's excellent fuel efficiency.

It's easy to know Chittagong is near when roadside vendors with stacks of reclaimed ship hardware for sale appear,with each specializing in certain objects: lifebelts, kitchen sinks, cabling, steel tubing, steps. 

Reclaimed ships' steps for sale near Chittagong
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Some tourists make a point of seeing the huge ships that get beached along this coastline, only a kilometre or so from the Highway. I can't be bothered.

Instead, I keep heading south and make it to Bangladesh's third biggest city, one of about five million - by 3:00 - feeling hot and thirsty.

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Getting a permit to visit the restricted Hill Tracts is my priority and I try to find the way to the government office, but simply get lost in the serious urban chaos of Chittagong. Traffic is bad, really bad, and so when I spot a sign for 'GEC', which my Bradt Guide says is where to find a good bed, I cycle towards the place and eventually book into a 44-dollar-a-night place. There's just one room they left - a spacious twin with blessed AC and free Wi-fi.

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On day two I obtain my permit for the Hill Tracts - a restricted area. Police overly worry about tourists getting attacked, so keep a tight lid on things and the hotel staff had informed me I won't be allowed to cycle around, so when I apply I state I'll be traveling by bus and detail an itinerary, one that's bullshit made up on the spot.

Basically, I'll get the bus to Bandarban, then just see what happens when I start cycling north to Rangarmati and beyond. If the police stop me, then I'll simply head back here to Chittagong and take a train north to Comilla.

Today's ride: 112 km (70 miles)
Total: 250 km (155 miles)

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