Christmas Day

December 25, 2010

Triprayar on the island

There were mosquitos after me when I went to bed last night, so my sleep was denied for quite a while and I get up at gone 9:00 - a late start for me -and reckon I'll buy some napalm-strength spray to zap the little bastards before arriving at the next place as I had the same irritating problem in that fancy place in Cochin. Enough is enough.

I simply copy the Indian couple who are sat at the other outside table at the guesthouse and have omelette and toast with marmalade and we start to chat about my trip and they tell me they've come down from Bangalore for a wedding. They don't know if there's a ferry leaving from the island's upper tip. They work in IT.

The coast road continues just as yesterday - peaceful with hardly any vehicles. Large rocks stacked three high separating it from the beach and ocean and to my right are trees and occasionally there;s a glimpse of water. Expensive-looking holiday bungalows are dotted along either side - no doubt asking much more than the 400 rupees of where I slept.

The sun is out and it feels like a good Christmas Day.

After a while I get to a place that might be a ferry port, but it turns out to be just some Chinese fishing boats and a new jetty what looks like a vain attempt to create a resort that's failed to materise.

I take a photo or two as the nets get lifted and dropped and then start to ride, but soon see around 15 Trek mountain bikes against the wall and their helmeted riders standing around taking pictures of the same nets, so start talking to a couple of British women in Lycra who tell me they've just arrived from the north by ferry. It's just a couple of kilometres away to the terminal, which brings me some relief.

Two other women ask about my trip (the men must feel whatever, as they don't say a word) and I learn they're all on an organized tour with everything provided and only need to carry a camera,which is a slim pocket-type by the looks of it. They seem surprised when I take out my hefty SLR and take a shot as they start riding further south.

Once off the ferry -four rupees -the road continues as before and even though it's not busy due to the intermittent ferries I make a left after five minutes or so when I see a faded sign for a lighthouse that's 1 km away. Who knows what it'll be like.

Well, it's brutally square poured concrete with an exterior staircase and the staff say photography is not allowed because it's a restricted area, but the good news is the lane seems to keep going and once over a footbridge it turns to sand-dirt.

It's rideable with care and eventually becomes a firm albeit rough tarmac lane that serves the small houses that line the coast. Magic!

The Trek group started their day in Cranganore and some of the females said I'd get farther than that today as it was then late morning, but they don't know me and my schedule and were shaking their heads when I said that I didn't know today's destination. On my map, Cranganore looks doable though. It's called Kodungallur now.

A small shop tempts me to stop and I have a large bottle of mango juice and the man tells me this beach road ends 500 metres further and that I should turn right just here, which is what I do after taking a few portraits.

My direction is east and India's NH 17 route will be this way and sure enough I reach it after a while.

A sign says Cranganore is 40 km away, which surprises me as it's getting late and riding 40 km doesn't appeal.

After 10 I get to Triprayar, which has a temple that I go check out only to find it's another Hindu one that I'm not allowed to enter, so ride back to the main road.

Back on route 17, at the junction I go into a modern hotel that I saw earlier and the receptionist says it's 400 rupees for a single without AC and I take it without looking as I feel that Cranganore can wait till Boxing Day and that I'll try to find an alternative to the 17, which is busy and not really enjoyable cycling. I wonder what route the Trek group took.

This hotel is a great deal and it's hard to believe it's only 400 rupees.

The cold I caught a while ago now resides in my chest and I cough a lot when trying to sleep. Not only that: the sniffles have returned tonight and I feel rough after a dinner in the hotel's restaurant, where I said I didn't want a strong beer but I think that's what they poured me - 8% I reckon.

Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles)
Total: 2,293 km (1,424 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	0
Comment on this entry	Comment	0