Chittagong Hill Tracts

November 9, 2010

Bandaban by bus

The Hills Tracts Permit: I didn't mention travelling around by bicycle - it may be wise to do the same as officials are cagey about letting tourists go there. Checkpoint will asked for this and make copies as getting them done is a bit of a rave outside of town.

Last night I felt knackered and went to bed at 8:30, only to wake up at 3:00, knowing that I'll likely feel pooped later but get back to sleep again and crash out till nearly nine.

After a show and breakfast, the guy on reception tells me buses to Banderban and there's a stop just nearby. It'll take nearly four hours to get there but also mentions that it's not possible to travel direct to Rangamati and that I'll need to come back to Chittagong, which contradicts what the police official said when I gave him my itinerary - him stating it was okay to go directly north.

The reception guy then says there's a boat that plies the route, but that it's dangerous (again) and is only suitable for locals. In the end my mind is made up to just get to Bandaban and sus out the score. My aim is to ride, but reckon it'll be tough - maybe 120 km of up and down on a basic road with no doubt with police checkpoints along the way to contend with.

The hotel staff send me to the wrong ticket office and it's a few kilometers to the right one - a ride along busy roads jostling with cars and rickshaws and CNGs - not a great start to the day.

The good news is the fare cost just 140 taka up to Bandaban - about US$2 - which is pretty cheap for a three-hour journey. The bus leaves at 11:30, only a minute or so after I've bought a ticket and seen my bike tied to the roof.

It's an enjoyable trip with views from the back seat, looking out an open window. It's mostly rice and barley fields, looking about ready for harvesting in slightly faded shades of green, but I'm pleased I didn't opt to ride as there's no shoulder and quite a lot of traffic.

I'm now in the Royal Hotel, which isn't as ostentatious as its name implies. My AC room setme back 800 taka - roughly US$12 - and is pretty small, but decent enough.

A local woman picking leaves at the lookout spot

Once sorted out in my room, a CNG trundles me slowly in first gear up a super-steep winding road to the top of a hill which has a 360-degree panoramic view. It's already 4-ish and the sun is getting low. We pass indigenous people and their bamboo and straw homes on the way - they look very different from Bengalis - and I wish we could stop to take some photos... but there'll be other chances.

The deal is to go to another place that the driver calls Meghla and I'm not really sure what this was. In hindsight I should have stayed for the sunset on the hilltop, as Meghla is a park with trails winding through it and it's just about dark when we arrive, so I just take a few snaps before the driver zips me back to the Royal - another 450 taka spent for the couple of hours.

The young guy on reception at this hotel says there's a road going north to Rangamati and I reckon that's what I'll try to do in the morning - start riding north. Right now I need to eat something.

Today's ride: 4 km (2 miles)
Total: 254 km (158 miles)

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