Day 53: Fordsville to White Mills: "If you hear banjos, turn around and run"

July 21, 2016

DAILY STATS

Mileage: 54.4

Average Speed: 12.3 mph

Maximum Speed: 33.8 mph

Yesterday, I spent some time chatting with the fire chief about Kentucky--namely the differences between the eastern and western halves of the state. Why? Well up to now, almost all westbound cyclists that I've passed have said that the differences between the two regions is stark. I asked him to elaborate. To paraphrase his response, "In eastern Kentucky, if you hear banjos, just turn around and run." The region still clings strongly to its Appalachian culture. It has also been decimated by the collapse of the coal mining industry. There is thus widespread poverty, but a strong sense of culture and deep family ties. It will be interesting to see, in just a few more days, how my expectations compare to reality.

Alas, I find myself digressing from the present. Today was very similar to yesterday, albeit with less chicken poop and more cows. I left the fire station just before 8am. From here on put, I think it'll be safe to make the assumption that every day from here to Yorktown will be humid. It was, however, not too bad today. Maybe I'm acclimating, or just resigning myself to the sweaty reality thay is now my life.

I rode alongside lots of tobacco fields today. The terrain was hillier than yesterday, indicating that I am nearing the Appalachians.

Cows! I haven't seen many of them since Kansas. They have away of looking at you with longing, distant faces, as if they're trying to say "Do you really want to eat me?"

I crossed into eastern time, my final time change for the trip. It's really starting to hit home how far I've actually come. I've nearly crossed a continent. What can't I do? I'm hooked to touring, and already researching other tours that I'd like to do in the future.

By 2:30 I made it to the White Mills volunteer fire department. I got set up inside, made some food, and got to my next task: determining whether or not I should do the detour to Mammoth Cave National Park. After some consideration, I think I'm going to do it. Why miss out on a new national park? I've got the time! Plus, what better way to escape the heat than to literally go in a cave?

Today's ride: 54 miles (87 km)
Total: 3,527 miles (5,676 km)

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