Day 3: Fossil Springs and Verde Hot Spring

May 5, 2003

I got away from the Strawberry Lodge kind of late at 8:25 AM, heading west on Forest Road 708. The road passes many acreage retirement homes on the edge of the forest. The sky was sunny and the temperature promised to warm up considerably as I dropped in elevation. The pavement ends after 3 miles as I enter Tonto National Forest. I lowered tire pressure to 30 psi for optimum traction on the gravel.

Heading west from Strawberry towards Fossil Creek.

Very soon the road begins a spectacular descent. The road was blasted into the side of a ridge, and the valley is 2000 feet below with no guard rail. The road is very rocky so I could only go 10-15 mph on the descent. This is one of those situations where going downhill is hard work, braking hard to control the bike as it slips and slides on loose gravel and bounces over large rocks.

Descent to Fossil Creek. The flume is visible on the opposite side of the canyon.

At the bottom I parked the bike at the Flume Trailhead for the hike to Fossil Springs. It took a while to shed my warm cycling clothes, change into shorts, t-shirt, and Teva sandals, and organize my fanny pack for a long hike. The temperature was 70F and promised to get much warmer through the afternoon. The Flume Trail starts at 3500 feet elevation, with a steep 1/2 mile climb to the flume access road, then gradual uphill for another 3.5 miles along a service road (Jeep road) to Fossil Springs at 4300 feet elevation.

Flume that supplies water to the Irving power plant. The road I came down is visible in the upper left.

The trail has many excellent views of the flume snaking along the hillside. Constructed in 1916, the flume diverts most of the water from Fossil Springs to the Irving hydroelectric power plant.

Update: The Irving power plant, Childs Power plant, and flumes have since been dismantled. Fossil Springs now flows unimpeded into Fossil Creek as part of a major habitat restoration project.

After 2.5 hours I finally arrived at Fossil Springs. For the last 1/4 mile the landscape is very lush and the air is cooler and more humid. The springs were interesting but somewhat of a disappointment. They flow more than 1 million gallons per hour. The water is about 75F year round and very clear. There are some nice swimming holes at the springs but the water and air were a bit too cold to make me want to get in the water for very long. I was the only one there. I rested for an hour watching the water, the birds, and eating fruit and cookies for lunch.

Fossil Springs flows more than 1 million gallons per hour.

Then I began the 4 mile hike back to the bike. In some ways it was a relief to warm up in the sunny, arid canyon.

I got back to the bike at about 3 PM and continued west, downstream to where the road crosses Fossil Creek. From the bridge I could see a series of deserted swimming holes upstream and downstream, but I didn't stop.

Soon I reached the turnoff for Forest Road 502 to the Childs Power Plant. That road climbs steeply and the road is rougher and rockier. One section is so steep and rocky that I walked the bike 1/4 mile. After climbing 1000 feet the road begins a steep descent to the Verde River. The tires skidded often, even though I kept my speed at less than 10 mph. After an extremely steep rocky 1300 foot descent the road dumps me into the National Forest Campground (3000 feet elevation). 10 parties were already camped there but I was able to find a site. This is a free campground and the only facility is a pit toilet. No tables, no water faucets. I set up my tent, filtered water from the river, and made dinner.

Just before sunset I hiked to Verde Hot Springs to have a soak. The trail passes the Childs Power plant on a walkway over the turbine outlets where I could see water gush out with impressive volume and velocity. After that, the trail goes upstream for about a mile, then fords the river to the Hot Springs. The river Was 2 feet deep and moving very swiftly at the crossing point. I had a nice solitary soak at the hot spring for a couple hours, then hiked back to the campground in the darkness. The day ended 3000 feet lower than I started, but my average speed was only 8.8 mph because the descent was all on steep rocky roads. It was nice to wear short sleeves most of the day. This campsite is the lowest elevation on the trip. Mosquitoes and chiggers are a problem near the river. My legs got many large and long-lasting welts from chigger bites. Nevertheless, it was a great day with a spectacular descent from forest to desert and two long hikes in riparian zones.

Distance: 20.2 miles (32.3 km) all but 3 miles on gravel roads

Climbing: 1320 feet (403 m)

Average Speed: 8.8 mph (14.1 km/h)

Maximum Speed: 25.5 mph (40.8 km/h)

Hiking: 11 miles (17.6 km)

Today's ride: 20 miles (32 km)
Total: 126 miles (203 km)

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