Day 50 - In Bolzano (again) - Oh The Places You'll Go - 2025 - CycleBlaze

May 30, 2025

Day 50 - In Bolzano (again)

Messner (Again)

Today was a trek to the Messner Mountain Museum at Furmian castle. It was another stunning day, starting to border on hot, and the views from the castle were stunning.

The museum was very interesting and laid  out so you felt a little like a mountaineer … ie there were a lot of narrow stairs and elevated walkways to negotiate. The exhibits within the buildings built on the history of traditional mountaineering, however they really don’t lend themselves to photography, and you almost had to be listening to the ‘audio tour’ from Messner (there’s an App!) to give some coherence to the place. In that sense you’re saved from a massive photo dump. 

The views from and of the castle though are great.

The museum and the trip to and from the castle (there’s a bus and then a 20 min hike up to the castle) took the main part of the day and we spent the remainder of the day updating journals and just enjoying some down time. 

Dinner was outside at another ‘Ivan recommendation’, Gasthaus Fink (no more German language jokes, promise), traditional Tyrollean and northern Italian fare  and very well done.

It’s been a great extended stay here in Bozen / Bolzano but we’re bugging out tomorrow and heading into the high alps to the north west. The weather is starting to heat up (30° c forecast for Bolzano by Sunday) so hopefully the higher altitudes will quell some of that.

The view looking north up the Adige valley towards Meran as we’re walking up to Firmian castle.
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Enter the lair … MMM Firmian, the central focal point of the six Messner Mountain Museums
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An Italian / Tyrollean interpretation of Tibetan prayer flags
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Cool Inukshuk, but what I’m really amazed with is the number of contrails in the sky
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Great view of Bolzano and the Isarco valley. That’s the Sciliar massif in the background. We would have been riding right along it a few days ago if we hadn’t been rained out on our Alpe di Siusi day. Nice to see it from here at least.
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And that’s him … looks like a pretty good rendition of Reinhold Messner
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There was a little ‘alcove’ in the castle with an old chairlift set up by a ‘window’ in one of the walls, perfectly framing the Sciliar Massif … so here’s another shot of it, but focused on the little metal work climbers in front.
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Here we go, full on zoom in on the Sciliar Massif, from Firmian castle
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Looking South West from Firmian castle. Kaltern, where we were yesterday is just over the near ridge
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There is a lot of Himalayan artifacts and religious statues here, no surprise given the amount of time Messner spent climbing there
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Karin KaarsooAre.these the Elgin marbles of the future?
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2 weeks ago
Kirsten KaarsooTo Karin KaarsooCould very well be. I think some were gifts to Messner but who knows.
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2 weeks ago
Just another great view of the very tight Isarco valley, looking north over Bolzano and up to the Sciliar Massif
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Brenda CardinalHeartbreaking😔
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2 weeks ago
Kirsten KaarsooTo Brenda CardinalYes it is. It is essentially a much sadder story than how it was depicted in The Sound of Music. It happens all over the world.
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2 weeks ago
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Looking north and keeping guard up the Adige valley
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South Tyrol, not Nepal. Still beautiful
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Back in Bolzano and off to our last dinner.
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K’s beet and cheese dumplings … classic Tyrol. Not the most photogenic dish but very tasty
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My caprese… also very good
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Chicken and almond curry … same comments re photo shots. This was for our stomachs, not instagram. Great comfort food
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Karin KaarsooNo schnitzel?
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2 weeks ago
Kirsten KaarsooTo Karin KaarsooI was wanting something different. Generally it is always on the menu.
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2 weeks ago
Ditto for my veal schnitzel with potato salad.
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Karin KaarsooI was waiting for schnitzel!
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Kirsten KaarsooTo Karin KaarsooLyle had two nights ago I had it last night. It is always a scrumptious meal.
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2 weeks ago
Evening sun on the cathedrals very beautiful roof
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Soft evening light on the main square.
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There was a concert underway in front of the Rathaus as we were wandering back home. Nice touch that we took in for a while.
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There were a few of these bikes that we’ve seen in this same spot, and condition, for the last few days. Classic.
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Almost home, no aperitivo for us at Gandolfi tonight though.
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This feels like it’s become our neighbourhood over the last few days
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… and who doesn’t like a brewery less than 100 m away! Had a refreshing beer here this afternoon after getting back from the castle
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Last look at the sunset in Bolzano from our apartment balcony. Lovely place and very full of life on this perfect evening
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SOTD

Blowin’ in the Wind, Bob Dylan

Although it might be a bit cliche, there were two section of the MMM where selected verses of this classic were being played.

One, with a montage of mountaineers, many of them Messner’s contemporaries, who died executing their craft:

‘Yes, how many time must a man look up  before he can see the sky?
Yes, how many ears must one man have before he can hear people cry?
Yes how many deaths will it take ‘till he knows that too many people have died’

…. and another where the temporary nature of mountains, in a geological time frame, was expounded on:

‘Yes, how many years must a mountain exist before it is washed into the sea?
Yes, how many years can some people exist before they’re allowed to be free?
Yes, and how many times can a man turn his head and pretend that he just doesn’t see?
Good night from Bolzano. It’s been a wonderful stay and we hope we’re back someday.
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