Day 38 - Aviano to Belluno - Oh The Places You'll Go - 2025

May 18, 2025

Day 38 - Aviano to Belluno

Very Very Locavore

Another classic one today.

We got off to an early for us start, pedalling away from our quite nice apartment in Aviano at 8:40. The weather forecasts have been pretty consistent over the last few days with clear skies in the morning and then rain showers forecasted for the afternoon. We wanted to give ourselves the best chance possible for staying dry.

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The first speed bump on that road came about 400 m down the road, an open cafe. Our otherwise very good apartment lacked real coffee making tools so this necessitated a stop. It’s also gave us a real life window into some of the real essence of Italian life.

While we’re having our coffee (cappuccino for K and a doppio for me) this car pulls up … and parks at the stop sign. Yes, that’s right, he is parked and out of the car, at the stop sign.

The time stamp on this photo that Kirsten took is 9:00. He’s just out of the picture and has entered the café.

Time stamp 9:03. He’s back in the car. and drives off.

Two takeaways for us. First, just about anywhere seems to be a parking spot in Italy and since it’s Sunday morning it’s perfectly sensible to park at the stop sign, in particular since it’s related to the second takeaway. We are 99.9% certain that this guy went to the bar in the cafe, ordered a caffé (a single shot espresso), received the caffé, knocked back the caffé, and was back out the door and on his way.

Three minutes.

It would take that long for the average Starbucks customer in NA to figure out what they wanted and then another 5 minutes or more for the order to be sent to the barista to make (with a fancy design on the oat milk froth).

Life is good here.

Ok, now were on our way again on beautiful deserted roads and or dedicated bike trails, travelling through vineyards, fruit orchards and lovely small towns.

Heading west on another glorious morning. Perfect cycling weather, mid teens, sun and a light breeze from the south.

Looked like a peach orchard and every tree had a ‘wasp bottle’ tied to it.

One of the first towns we come to, San Giovanni, we see a cheese and charcuterie truck setting up shop in a square in front often the church. While I’m stopped taking a picture the folks setting up the truck start to chat with us, and give us a few samples of their cheeses, which they and their neighbours make, and then start to show us their ‘cycle tans’ on their legs!.

Life is good here.

About 200 m later in the middle of the town I strike up a little more limited conversation with someone who also may have had a hand in the cheese.

The cheese truck. Great people and great cheese. A small wheel of one of the ones we sampled was only 6 €, a steal at this price but we really didn’t have a way of keeping that much cheese in a proper state for a few days.

Time to get moving again and the day just kept having a nice easy pastoral flow to it. Sunday morning, trails filled with walkers, runners, bikers and in the towns, folks heading off to mass at 11:00.

The morning and the KM’s seemed to fly by and we were soon in Vittorio Veneto, the last large(ish) town for the day, and the start of or climb north into the Dolomites.

With that we decided to grab a quick lunch and we found a very good and quick service Pakistani restaurant where K and I had samosas and a chicken biryani, giving us sufficient fuel for the climb.

Beautiful riding all day. With the rain last night there were some streams that were overflowing their banks a bit but still easy enough to ride through

More stone walls and vineyards. They seem to go together.

We were coming by this Church as the bells were peeling at 11:00. Next thing we see is this procession of young kids coming out of a building adjacent to the church, being led by a priest up the stairs and into the church. Confirmation day?? Quite interesting to see. There were lots of what looked to be parents taking pics of the kids.

Nearing Victoria Veneto where we’d leave the plains and head north into the Dolomites!

Our first field of poppies on this trip. On our 2023 tour we saw fields of them almost every day of the tour.

Lillies growing wild beside the road. These were what the ‘confirmation’ kids were carrying.

I had it in my head that Vittorio Veneto was a very old place but the area we cycled through and had lunch was quite ‘modern’. The oldest stuff looked like it was late 19th century at most. As we headed north and started climbing up the narrow valley leading to Lago di Santa Croce and the Dolomites, we stumbled into the Vittorio Veneto from all the postcards!

The sign basically outlines our next three days!

Now here’s the Vittorio Veneto from the postcards. Very beautiful square with wickedly step cobble stone streets leading north … the direction we’re going!

In Vittorio Veneto before the cobble stone climb.

After the cobble stone climb and ready to continue to climb and relatively quiet highways along the lakes and eventually to Belluno

The rest of the day was good 350 m climb to Lago di Santa Croce and then beautiful rolling country the rest of the way to our Agriturismo a few km’s outside of Belluno.

Yes, we’re going for another Agriturismo and this one turned out to be fabulous. Everything that you could dream about. A stunning location set on the hills above Belluno, a beautiful building with rustic yet updated rooms, fantastic hosts, a great dinner (with all the food literally from within 5 km’s of the place) … and Memo, the friendliest three year old Lab to show us around the place!

After the climb, looking back south towards Vittoria Veneto.

Now looking north over Lago di Santa Croce.

Great place for a banana and chocolate break

Wonderful trails for several km’s at the north end of the lake.

There was a pretty good wind today and these kite surfers were using it. Since I haven’t mentioned the wind yet, it’s because we really didn’t notice it … it was a tail wind! made us feels like heroes again!

Some interesting art work along the trails.

Put the camera away, we’ve got to keep moving

The heart of the Dolomites beckon! Looking north to where were heading over the next few days.

Belluno down below us as we make the final run to our Agriturismo

There were a few km’s of gravel, some of it VERY steep near the end of the ride. The views were stunning though and the forecasted rain was now an afterthought (it never did come)

And here we are … Agriturismo Antico Fienile. Highly recommended

Our aperitivo … tonic water, acacia flower syrup, mint and prosecco (everything made in house by Paolo and Nicolette, the proprietors). This was great.

Secondi - marinated beef with lemon and thyme, accompanied by beans and cabbage. Everything grown on site or at a neighbouring farm.Again fantastic

K have an animated chat with Paolo (just off screen - super chill and friendly guy)

SOTD

Going Up The Country by Canned Heat

A feel good song that will make us think of Agriturismo Antico Fienile every time we hear it. Fits right in with the soundtrack that Paolo had playing as well - lots of 60’s & ‘70’s classics.

Another great day! Good night from Belluno!

Today's ride: 79 km (49 miles)
Total: 1,846 km (1,146 miles)

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