September 20, 2023
Day 8: EuroVelo 6 across France
Rest day in Nevers
After cycling over 600 km in 7 days, we've almost reached the halfway point along the EuroVelo 6 route across France, from east to west. We can't keep this pace up! Fortunately, the second half of the trip will have a less hectic schedule in terms of daily distance. The main reason for this slower pace is that the Loire Valley is the most interesting part of the trip, with its rich history, many attractions, and places to visit. The second reason is that we're meeting David's friend, Stewart, in Orléans, who’ll join us for the next leg of the journey. When planning the dates for him to meet us, I miscalculated by a day or two, giving us less time to reach Orléans. Don’t blame me - blame my 2A Unit Maths teacher in high school!
Our rest day started with me getting up early to explore the medieval and Middle Ages areas of Nevers. The history and architecture here are unbelievable - buildings from the seventh century are still standing!
When the rest of the team woke up, we headed out for breakfast. Even at 9:00 am, not much was open. Stores here open at 9:00 or 9:30 am, close from noon to 2:00 pm, and shut by 7:00 pm (or earlier if it’s not busy). Many are closed on Sundays and much of Mondays. I’m now considering seeking French citizenship.
We eventually found breakfast and then set off on a self-guided walking tour, following a blue line on a map borrowed from our host (more on this later). The blue line on the map corresponded to a blue line painted on the roads and curbs for those less skilled at map reading. Unfortunately, some of the blue lines had faded or were tarred over, so we spent as much time searching for the next bit of the line as we did take in the many city attractions. These included the Palais Ducal de Nevers, the Cathedral of Saint-Cyr and Sainte-Julitte (Nevers Cathedral) - an absolute must-see, having been bombed by the British in WWII and rebuilt in the 1960s - and the Municipal Museum, and Promenade des Remparts!
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After another chocolate éclair and coffee (with the others making similarly healthy choices), I headed back to our accommodation to do some laundry while David continued exploring and Brett and Col headed for a local "nudist beach" (a gravel area by the Loire River). They blamed the icy water for any apparent shrinkage issues.
The map I was supposed to return to our host found its way into the washing machine, having been left in my pocket. It’s now exceptionally clean.
After a relaxing afternoon, we went out for a couple of drinks and, for the first time on the trip, indulged in French fine dining of the highest order - a classy place of Michelin-star standards frequented by the elite of Nevers. Then we arrived (see photo below - parental guidance recommended). Brett's rugby shorts were quite a hit. After all, the Rugby World Cup is currently being played in France (though we did notice several patrons leaving the restaurant with their meals half-eaten).
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