September 17, 2023
Day 5: EuroVelo 6 across France
Chalon-Sur-Saone to Montceau-les-Mines
Last night was a quiet one for me. I caught up on some reading, writing, checked emails, and booked accommodation for the coming days. The extended tourist season, plus the Rugby World Cup, is making it tricky to secure rooms in France, especially for four people looking for twin rooms. Stewart will join us in a few days, making us a group of five, so accommodation planning is about to get even more interesting.
While I stayed in, Col, Brett, and David headed into Chalon-Sur-Saône to rehydrate after a long day of cycling and to grab dinner. At one point, Brett kindly brought me some food, which I greatly appreciated. The boys finally returned around midnight. I had already fallen asleep but woke up briefly to the sound of Google Maps announcing, "You have arrived at your destination" as they reached the hotel door.
Our hotel, Hôtel A La Villa Boucicaut, has been excellent, and the service top-notch. They even do cyclists' laundry for free! Breakfast was filling, and the menu was extensive, all for just €9.50. After breakfast, we headed to the local markets to pick up lunch for the road. The array of food was overwhelming - choosing what to buy wasn't easy!
Today's ride took us away from the rivers and through more villages and along canals. The bike paths were in good condition, with some gravel trails to keep things interesting. It was a busy Sunday, with many other cyclists out enjoying the peaceful canal scenery - until a group of cycling tourists (not us!) came by, blaring music and shattering the serenity.
In the morning, we cycled past fields of Charolais cattle (as a country boy, I know my cattle!) and farmlands lying fallow, awaiting their next crop. We encountered a group of Americans on a seven-day bike tour. Feeling a bit homesick, David struck up a conversation with some of them. After a while, he rejoined us, and I couldn’t resist asking if they were also from North Carolina like him. They weren’t. I then asked if he knew any of them as they were American – another no. Apparently, not every American knows each other! Go figure!
We stopped for lunch by a canal near a village, feasting on the fresh market produce. Brett took on the role of chef, preparing a smorgasbord of fruit, cheese, baguettes, and salami. Chef Heston Blumenthal would’ve been proud - Gordon Ramsay, maybe not!
After lunch, we rode along tree-lined pathways, boulevard-like. We kept leapfrogging a couple along the route, and eventually, during a water break, they stopped to chat. Hildegard and Ruediger were delightful. Hildegard had visited Australia three times and was fascinated by our wildlife. Ruediger, while engaging, sported the shortest, tightest shorts known to man! They asked to swap the group photos that we’d taken with them by email – then proceeded to lecture me that no one ever replies to them. I made it my mission to email the photograph that evening … I’m still waiting to get one from them …
Though today’s ride was ‘only’ 70 km, our legs were feeling the cumulative toll of five consecutive days of cycling. It didn’t get easier as the day wore on. The next two days will be 90 km and 80 km rides, followed by a well-deserved rest day in Nevers.
We arrived in Montceau-les-Mines around 4:00 pm, only to find a sign on the hotel door stating that the front desk didn’t open until 5:00 pm, despite check-in being available from 2:00 pm. WTF? Fortunately, a quick phone call sorted things out, and someone arrived to let us in. The hotel was clean and tidy, with a bar - a definite plus - but it also had the smallest rooms of our trip so far. David had to do his daily stretches in the hallway!
After a quick shower, we ventured into the historic part of town, searching for a bar to watch the Wallabies vs. Fiji Rugby World Cup match. Unfortunately - or perhaps fortunately, given that we lost - we couldn’t find any bars open on a Sunday. I had been warned that Sundays were quiet in France, and it couldn’t have been truer.
We eventually found a brasserie for dinner, and the bar next door was broadcasting the game. Australia lost - we told the French locals that we were Fijian. Bula!
Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 375 km (233 miles)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 2 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 0 |