September 14, 2024
Day 2: Eurovelo 6 across France
Montbéliard to Besancon
Yesterday, I had "issues" with my bike, which led me to email the hire company about the much-needed maintenance. According to a bike shop in Montbéliard, the front axle wouldn't last until Saint-Nazaire unless repaired. More on this later in the post.
We wanted an early start for Day 2, as we had 90 km to cover to reach Besancon (which, by the way, is pronounced nothing like it’s spelled – ‘con’ is ‘son’). Our host, France (yes, I double and tripled-checked her name!), prepared a wholesome breakfast of bread, cheeses, croissants, pancakes, fruit compote, and coffee. After filling up, we left around 8:00 a.m.
It was a picturesque ride out of Montbéliard, passing through parklands on excellent bike paths. With the wind at our backs, we made good time, averaging around 19 km/h. The terrain was mostly flat, following the Canal Rhône au Rhin and later the Doubs River, which we’ll be riding alongside for the next few days.
Two hours after a full breakfast, we were eating again - this time a chocolate éclair with coffee for morning tea. Ahead of us lay 25 km of rolling hills, with some steep inclines. At the 28 km mark, we began climbing along the Doubs River. The initial climbs were manageable, with an average gradient of 4%, but later we faced some much steeper grades - up to 18% at times, though fortunately these stretches were short. I admit, I had to walk my bike a couple of times!
Compared to last year’s ride along the Rhine, this area is certainly greener, thanks to more rain. The drought isn’t broken, but there's hope. The maize (corn) looks healthier, though it could use more rain for a successful harvest. Agriculture here is less varied than along the Rhine; so far, it’s been mostly corn with a few dairy cattle. There’s plenty of farmland, but it’s hard to tell what it's used for.
Riding along the canal and river was magnificent. The leaves turning as the seasons change made a stunning backdrop, and we spent much of the day cycling through gorges with craggy cliffs rising on the opposite bank.
It was around this point that I met Ludwig. As the others rode ahead, I stopped to chat with a fellow multi-day cyclist travelling in the opposite direction. Ludwig (whose daughter is currently surfing in Bali) is sixty-two and out to prove he’s still fit, aiming to ride 3,000 km in 29 days - that’s over 100 km every single day! We swapped stories, and I pedalled on to catch up with the team.
By this time, Leo, my contact at the bike hire company, had reached out to arrange a bike shop in Besancon to make the necessary repairs later today. I was really impressed with their service - problems like this can happen, and it’s the mark of a great business when they manage it so well.
We stopped for lunch in Baume-les-Dames at a supermarket café. The food was cheap, but I was caught out by the language barrier. I pointed to what was a plate of cold meats for a light lunch. The waitperson nodded, and I ended up with a pork chop and vegetables. C’est la guerre! We also had a brief chat with a local guy at the next table, who seemed quite animated about our journey. He told us that the next stretch of our route was beautiful and encouraged us to take our time to enjoy it. Then, just like that, he left without another word.
After lunch, we rode about five kilometres before being flagged down by a man at the side of the EuroVelo cycleway - it was Michel, the guy from lunch! He had brought a bottle of French champagne to share with us, a gesture we’ll never forget. Michel, a professor of sports at a university, told us that at the Tour de France, the stage winner celebrates with champagne, and he believed we deserved the same honour for our fitness and healthy lifestyle. David, who had become our unofficial interpreter, pointed out that Michel didn’t quite say that. But I reminded David that his own French wasn’t perfect, and that’s exactly what Michel meant. We agreed to disagree.
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As we rode on, the guys kept reminding me of my bike issues - punctures, gears, axle trouble, you name it. Col decided it was time to catch up, having a pannier malfunction when the locking bracket broke. A quick trip to a hardware shop had him confident he could fix it. Knowing Col, I had no doubt - he’s a natural artisan.
Near the town of Deluz, we noticed three boxes attached to trees, each with a theme written on it: Toy Story, The Beach, and Ghost Story. Inside each was a handmade scene representing the title. It was interesting and completely unexpected.
Not long after, we reached the outskirts of Besancon, our destination for the day. Founded in 58 BC, the city’s skyline is dominated by its famous Citadel, and its fortifications are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
After checking into the Zenitude Hotel, I headed to the bike shop arranged by Leo to get my bike fixed -hopefully for good this time. There, I met my second Ludwig of the day. This Ludwig repaired my pedal axle-spindle, which had been cross threaded at some point and was causing gear changing issues and pedal slippage issues. As it turns out, Ludwig had travelled to Australia in 2009 with his girlfriend (now wife), exploring much of the east coast and the centre of the country. Bike fixed, I returned to the hotel for a quick shower before heading out for dinner and well-deserved beers after our 96 km ride.
Besancon has a historic feel, blending old-world charm with a modern, cosmopolitan vibe. The city centre was bustling with bars and restaurants full of patrons, and the Doubs River runs through the heart of the city, flanked by historic buildings on either side.
Being in the Alsace region, we dined on local food - yeah, nah. Then we headed to a bar next door to watch France play Uruguay in the Rugby World Cup, currently being hosted here. We watched most of the game but left before things got too rowdy - it was a much younger crowd, definitely in party mode. France won 27-12.
Today's ride: 90 km (56 miles)
Total: 150 km (93 miles)
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