September 29, 2023
Day 17 - Eurovelo 6 across France
Tours to Saumur
We had a hearty breakfast at Hotel Mondial in the heart of Tours and set off on easy-to-follow bike paths. It was another magnificent early morning ride, passing through fallow fields and the occasional dead sunflower crop. Sunflowers typically turn their heads to follow the sun, but eerily, all the wilted flowers we saw were still facing west, as if chasing the sunlight one last time.
Although we were expecting 20 km/h headwinds, they didn’t quite materialise - though we did face a breeze whenever we rode in exposed areas, especially atop levees or through acres of fallow ground. At one point, while pedalling through freshly ploughed land, we came across a large flock of crows. I’d never seen so many in one place. As we rode past, they all took flight - it felt like a scene straight out of Hitchcock’s The Birds.
Much of our route was on gravel paths through forests, where towering trees arched over the trail, their branches creating a natural canopy that shielded us from the sun and wind. When we weren't on paths, we were cruising along quiet country roads, where traffic was either non-existent or the drivers were courteous as they passed by.
We made our first stop in Villandry to check out the chateau. It was guarded by two layers of tall hedges, making it difficult to snap a photo. By now, we’d seen our fair share of chateaus, and stopping at every one would have added weeks to our trip! But that didn’t stop one determined photographer, aided by his supportive wife.
Just a few hundred metres further along, we paused at a boulangerie for morning tea. Next to the shop, a vending machine offered fresh baguettes 24/7 - a true testament to French devotion to bread! Some motorcyclists wandered past our parked bikes, visibly impressed by their riders.
Our next stop was in Langeais for another chateau photo opportunity. It’s a charming small town, though most of the shops were mysteriously closed at 11 a.m. on a Friday!
After riding for another 90 minutes, we stopped for lunch in Avoine, enjoying sandwiches in the forecourt of the local church. With our energy replenished, we powered through the final 30 km of today’s 90 km journey.
As we neared Saumur, we ventured off-piste and climbed some hills to pass through the region’s renowned wineries. The vineyards were extensive, and many of the wineries themselves were located in caves carved into the hillsides. The unique blend of limestone and chalk in the region is ideal for growing grapes, and the stone quarried from these caves was often used to build the surrounding houses.
We also noticed rose bushes planted at the ends of vine rows. These function as early warning systems for growers, since roses show signs of insect infestations, like aphids, before the vines do.
We finally arrived in Saumur at 4 p.m., checked in, showered, and took some time to explore the town before dinner. The chateau overlooking the city was impressive - it was once owned by royalty in the 1500s, but now belongs to the city council and serves as a museum.
Tomorrow, we head west to Angers, a 65 km ride. We’re nearing the end of our journey across France and hoping these final days will be just as memorable.
Au revoir!
Today's ride: 90 km (56 miles)
Total: 992 km (616 miles)
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