September 22, 2023
Day 10 - Eurovelo 6 across France
Sancerre to Gien
We had a bit of a slow start this morning, taking our time with breakfast while deciding what the weather would do. There were some intermittent showers, but nothing too heavy, and nothing to delay the ride - until we went to load our bikes and discovered Brett had a flat tire. It’s the fifth one between us on this trip, and there always seems to be valve issues. We’re starting to think we got a bad batch of tubes ... it couldn’t be us, right? Fortunately, we stocked up on tubes yesterday.
While the tube replacement team (i.e., Brett) got to work, David took the opportunity to add some adornments he bought at Decathlon yesterday. He installed toe clip pedals (to stop his shoes from slipping off in the rain), a mirror (to see himself about to get hit by a truck), and a phone holder (umm ... to hold a phone, of course).
The wet weather was holding off, so we headed down a steep hill out of Sancerre. Some of the backstreets were potholed and gravelly, and the wet surfaces made the ride even more "interesting"!
We crossed a beautiful ancient bridge, passing through vineyards and farm-laden laneways. When we finally returned to the bike paths, they were well-maintained and flat for most of the morning's ride.
It was only 60 km today, but I was already feeling leg-weary, and that feeling stuck with me all day. For me, it's a sign I’m dehydrated and not drinking enough. More effort required (so reminiscent of my school reports from the Sisters of Mercy in primary school)! Oh, and riding 700 km over 9 days as a non-cyclist didn’t help either!
A lot of the riding this morning was along paths atop high dikes, which we assume are for flood prevention. Some dikes were shared with cars, while others were reserved for cyclists and pedestrians.
We had a few showers this morning, but it was clear the earth really needed the rain. Much of Europe has been in drought for a while, so while it may be inconvenient for cyclists, it’s a lifeline for farmers.
Just as a heavy storm was hitting, we managed to pull into a shelter for about 15 minutes before continuing on toward two large cooling towers of a nuclear power station. Near the plant, we noticed a waterway that was bright green. Just sayin’.
As we passed the nuclear station, ironically (in some eyes) we came to an Environmental Education Centre which offered a warm respite from the cold and served hot coffee! Another quick stop.
We had only 18 km to go before lunch in Chatillon-sur-Loire. Google had promised us that a nearby creperie, serving award-winning crepes, would be open ... but alas, it wasn’t. So, onward to Speed Kebab! It turned out to be a great meal for David and me, though Col and Brett took one look at the deep fryer and headed off for healthier options.
After lunch, with about 20 km left to Gien, we faced headwinds and crosswinds. The track shifted directions frequently, and wind protection was inconsistent, making it hard to find a rhythm. Still, the scenery was magical, with the fresh, crisp air that only rain can bring. Farmland bordered one side of the bike path, dotted with cattle, while on the other side was a canal lined with large, dense trees showing off their autumn colours.
We rode over the magnificent Pont de Briare - a canal that crosses the Loire River, much like the one we rode over in Decize a few days ago. In my view, this one was even better.
Finally, we arrived in Gien, greeted by the imposing sight of Château de Gien towering over the town. It cast a striking shadow over the small town below. After a quick tour of the château, we went in search of a thirst-quenching ale. We still had an uphill 4 km ride to our night's stay at the Ibis Styles Gien (not to be confused with the cheap and nasty Ibis Budget hotel ... we do have standards!).
Given that our Ibis was on the outskirts of town, heading back for dinner was too difficult (plus, lessons learned from our Choisey stay still resonated!). Our dining options were McDonald's or another popular chain, Buffalo Grill. We chose the grill and had ourselves a boot-scootin' good time.
During nightcap drinks back at the Ibis, I learned something that made me question my 40-year friendship with Brett. It turns out he was an exceptionally talented piano accordion player until the age of fourteen! I couldn’t help but wonder if we would have become friends if I had known that back then ... I mean, what kind of nerd plays the piano accordion?
Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 663 km (412 miles)
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