Thiviers to Perigueux

May 17, 2023

Cycling in the sunny Vallēe del’Isle.

We weren’t quite sure what to expect from today’s route, because although Tourism France has some notes, they aren’t always great on specifics. Things like, where to start, what are some of the towns to look out for to let you know you’re heading the right way, what’s the path like. Specifically, how long is it? Komoot was pretty good at setting us up though.

After a breakfast of the usual continentals plus lashings of good coffee, we are fired up to hit the road for Perigueux.

So back through the town we go, busy with drivers determined to negotiate streets once made wide enough for horse and cart. Through the centre and onwards, we come to the familiar bike sign and arrow and a few names Ann has on her komoot radar. Pretty soon we reach the turnoff to the Vallēe del’Isle. And what a beautiful valley and road it is. Flat for the most part at the start, virtually no cars, weaving its way along through the bucolic countryside. There are orchards of noir- walnuts. And the sun is shining.

We continue to whittle away the kilometres at a steady pace and eventually stop for a brief lunch break. This morning’s breakfast of croissants still hangs heavy- in my case, so we don’t overdo it.

Church interiors are generally tastefully minimalistic, but occasionally there’s a tendency to include a garish chandelier or two.

The road through the valley continues straight and true with the odd climb and deviation.

At Le Change we have the choice of opting to remain on the D5 or follow the trail. We opt for the latter because trucks seem to be increasing, and give ourselves a bit of a savage workout with a few climbs and a couple of bits of lumpy path.

I spot this carving beside the cycle route. Presumably not an ancient artefact, but looks genuine.

After emerging from the trail, to our joy we spot the aerodrome and we know we’re there because we’ve read that the cycle path into Perigueux connects. And so it does. Easy peasy along the Isle to the centre where we hunt down our apartment. On the way in we catch a glimpse of the city’s multi domed Cathedral. There are also canoeists racing on the river.

The city has massive curb stones that make movement with a load tricky. But soon we’re there, we meet the owner, she shows us the garage for the bikes underneath the apartment. The apartment has a washing machine that seems to work, great shower, comfortable bed and a microwave/oven that has a guide book in every language bar English- could this be another Brexit effect? All good. Off to the supermarket. The central place has the usual bunch of guys clustered together doing who knows what, but it all looks very quiet apart from that. We buy up largish, even finding a bottle of Pinot Noir, not Otago admittedly, but Pays d’Oc- and it’s got a screw top! A bowl of tortellini in tomates basilic later, and we’re in heaven. Though we can only find one toilet roll…….

Today's ride: 58 km (36 miles)
Total: 1,117 km (694 miles)

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Robyn RichardsHello Michael and Ann
I'm really enjoying reading your journal. And the last few days especially as we rode pretty much the same route on the Flow Vélo in 2019. Took a train from the start to Rochefort then rode via Saintes, Cognac, Thiviers to Perigueux. Those wonderful voies vertes!
Envious, of course...
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11 months ago

Mary HutchingDo you find it hot cycling in tights? Lucky with the screw top - nothing worse than European wine with corks. Such a faff
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10 months ago

Michael HutchingTo Mary HutchingThey’re just knee warmers- I call them knee tremblers. It’s been nippy in mornings. Yes corks are a pain. Keep Portuguese in business maybe.
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10 months ago