April 6, 2023
Cambridge to Ely
Over the fens.
Cambridge to Ely
Over the fens.
48
We set off under a lowering sky after a wonderful breakfast from Max and Julia. The route is fairly clear and the first few kilometres are alongside green fields. We are following Sustrans routes 11 and 51.
The first of the thatched cottages we are to see throughout the day put in an appearance. The thatcher’s ‘signature’ along the ridge is quite distinctive.
After a short spell when the cycle route runs alongside a busy road, we reach Botisham where I persuade Ann that we need coffee and since the Co-op is the only source in town I opt for two Americanos. This is a mistake. One of us is distinctly underwhelmed.
From here we enter what really feels like fen country - the landscape of shifting light, making a crossing place between worlds. It’s a place of the Will o the Wisp and sea sprites. There’s also a large body of literature set in the area- Graham Swift’s Waterland, Hartley’s ‘The Go Between’ with it’s often quoted opening line, and several of Dicken’s books, just to name a few.
Today we cycle across a landscape bisected by waterways, where acres of land are freshly turned, ready for planting and fields where sheep, highland cattle and seemingly wild horses graze. It’s a little like the Camargue, only we can hear many more birds than we did there.
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11 months ago
At one point we reach a high bridge with steps, and guide rails for a bike’s wheels, where it seems as though we will have to remove our panniers to get our bikes over. But no! There suddenly appear two ‘older’ chaps, one a local, the other Irish, who help us manage our bikes across. After we help them with their bikes. It is, in fact, quite a hazardous exercise for laden bikes, as the rails are at a steep angle. We part, with cheery words, wish each other ‘Bonne route’.
We stop for lunch at an environmental centre, where there’s a cafe and a shop hiring bikes. After this it’s on to Ely and simply a matter of following the Sustrans signs until the wonderful cathedral appears on the horizon.
We follow a large waterway, the River Ouse, on the way into Ely and reach a mooring point for a large number of barges. Here we stop for a beer at the pub looking over this barge hub. Our mooring pint you might say.
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We cycle through the park beside the cathedral- quite massive in size and comprising different styles. On Lynn Road we find the cosy Airbnb we’ve booked and settle in after depositing our bikes in the garage.
Today's ride: 48 km (30 miles)
Total: 63 km (39 miles)
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1 year ago
And thanks for reminding me about Waterlands, a novel I read probably 20 years ago before I knew what the fens were. I’ll have to reread it with a different eye.
1 year ago
1 year ago
Cheers, Michael
1 year ago