In Termoli: day two

April 20, 2025

For reasons we won't go into now, we've changed our plans slightly and are staying in Termoli a fourth day. That scrambles our food plan and leaves us short so Rachael starts the morning with a trip to the nearby supermarket. Not much later I receive a call to let me know that even though it's Easter Sunday there's a surprising number of places open this morning - including several coffeehouses where I might have breakfast. Fifteen minutes later we meet up, look over the choices, and I opt for Ecco, the one that claims to have an American breakfast.

Not a bad way to spend Easter Sunday - sunshine, good company, and a cheese and prosciutto omelet.

With the help of our AirBnB host we made a booking for Easter dinner - a set menu affair that reminds me of the Easter feast we had in Caltanissetta some years ago - an all afternoon multi-course affair, and not really the sort of dining experience that works for either of us. So after looking it over again we cancelled our reservation and will just eat at home tonight.

With our extra day here though there's an open slot for tomorrow; so on the way back to the room we check out menus and book ourselves for an early lunch tomorrow.

Tomorrow's lunch venue. We took a photo to make sure we find our way back to the right spot.

Several hours of digesting and loafing around the apartment occur, but finally we're ready to stir again. I'm planning a flat, easy ride north along the coast, and Rachael has a walk planned. We're held up though when we go down to the lower apartment to get my bike but are unable to unlock its door. We both try multiple times, but the key won't fit the lock. Totally perplexing, because it's the same key we used just yesterday.

We're about to turn back and return to our room so we can ask our host for help when I notice there's also a lock on the shutters; and sure enough, the key fits that lock. So the theory is that yesterday the inner door was unlocked, which enabled us to get in; but I closed it behind me when I left.

A message to our host gets a prompt response, pointing us to a set of keys hanging from a wall rack in our unit - something his wife, who oriented us, failed to point out and maybe didn't know herself. So finally I'm out, and Rachael returns to the room to wait a bit longer before leaving herself.

Before leaving for my ride up the coast I take a few minutes to look around the old town again and come away with a few photos, including the only bird shots of the day. I was looking forward to biking up the coast and spotting some sea birds along the way but it turns out to be something of a bird desert here. Other than a corn bunting and a few small birds here and there that disappear into grass or brush as soon as they're sighted, there's nothing birdwise to be seen but jackdaws, rock pigeons, collared doves and an occasional magpie.

A view toward the back side f the cathedral.

Termoli's trabucco is an example of others that we'll see along the coast.

There always seem to be jackdaws at least.

Another jackdaw, apparently nesting in the crannies.

There's not too much to say about the ride itself. Flat, easy, about half of the way on bike lanes, it was pleasant just to be out and spinning away fairly effortlessly. It reminded me of the lazy miles in the Loop in Tucson, except for the cars. And there are only a few bikes out. And there aren't any roadrunners or coyotes or murals or cacti.. And there's a sea to my right instead of a mountain range. So not exactly like Tucson, but still a nice relaxing ride.

There were plenty of bikes on the road when I rode this stretch two seasons ago though. Oddly enough they were all grouped in a tight bunch, and moving considerably faster than me.

Well, there is some public art, along the first two miles leaving town anyway.

I pulled off at the small marina at Petacchio, thinking I might see some birds there. I didn't, and hardly anybody else either. There's that guy lying down reading a book way at the end here while his two kids play in the sand on a on empty beach.

Oh, that's right - red campion. I have to remind myself every year.

Crossing the Trigno River, just before I came to my turn back point at the Monteniro di Bisaccia marina. No birds there either, but I did see a gull here on the river. Mostly I stopped for the view though.

One last look back at the end of the ride.

Rachael stuck to the flats for her ride too, walking north along the sea on the two mile promenade north of town before doubling back and then circling the point to the south side. She says she ended up with a ten mile hike in spite of what her Garmin says, and I believe her.

Another small bit of artwork, on the long jetty beside the marina.

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Today's ride: 27 miles (43 km)
Total: 256 miles (412 km)

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