June 11, 2009
Vestvågøy and Henningsvaer
Thursday already. My map shows a small road and instead of doubling back along the leg that I came in on last night I ride west, in a continuation going around the coastline from Stamsund, and loop up back to Route 815, which then leads me along the sublime southern shore of Vestvågøy. I imagine Vikings here. It's timeless.
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The wind is in my face, but the sun's out so can't complain. No way. On the contrary. The weather has been brilliant. I wear shorts, a short-sleeved top and sandals.
A small cove of white sand implores me to stop and flip off my sandals to see what the sea is like. The water is very shallow and crystal clear. This is a couple of hundred kilometers inside the Arctic Circle, but it feels quite balmy. I'm sure I read that his whole expanse of sea is freakishly warm due to ocean currents that make the Lofoten Islands far warmer than they would otherwise be. It's about 30 minutes before I can drag myself away and get back on the bike and ride further north.
A building appears and it looks like a restuarant. When I get to it it's closed, but in the sheltered doorway is a cyclist asleep. He wakes and tells me the place won't open until summer season kicks off proper, and that he's on sabbatical from his uni' job and quite enjoying himself. He's a Finn, I would guess in his early 40s, and has ridden around most of Lofoten during his stay, which is coming to an end shortly. There's that unmistakable sense of dred about returning to work in his face.
After a couple of long, high bridges that take me to the islands of Gimsøy and on to Austvågøy, I lunch at Brustranda, a camp site with a cafe.
My progress is slow, but who cares. By the afternoon I'm veering down a cul-de-sac route to the village of Henningsvaer, where I dine in a nice place that also does rooms.
I feel quite pooped and a glass of beer later I decide to take one for 575 krone. It seems too much bother to tent it and I really need a warmer sleeping bag for the chilly nights.
Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles)
Total: 132 km (82 miles)
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