Day 2: Missoula to Ovando

June 13, 2025

The day did not begin well. I got up at 8:45 feeling bad. Made oatmeal and threw up after eating half of it. That made me feel a little bit better. I left the inn after 10, then stopped at the Albertson's supermarket 2 blocks away to buy food for a long day, expecting no services. Finally on the road at 10:30, feeling less than wonderful and taking it slow. I'm going upstream but the terrain is mostly flat, it's 70 degrees, and I have a tailwind. It could be worse!

Tiny park in Hellgate Canyon just east of downtown Missoula.

The first few miles are on Old MT 200 along the Clark Fork river. It has local traffic but all the thru traffic is on I-90 across the river.

After a few miles the road turns away from the Clark Fork river and starts to follow the Blackfoot river upstream.

Blackfoot river looking downstream. Clark Fork river and I-90 visible in the distance.

Along the Blackfoot river I promptly entered the small sawmill town of Bonner. The sawmill is still operating. Bonner has all the hallmarks of a company owned town. It's a historic district now, but I presume the company sold the homes a long time ago.

Lookalike houses in the historic company owned sawmill town of Bonner. The sawmill still operates.

After Bonner I have to ride on the main MT 200 highway. Traffic was annoyingly heavy but the highway has a rumble strip and a wide paved shoulder. The constant noise was extremely irritating but it was relatively safe and the scenery is good. Traffic seemed very friendly. Lots of friendly waves and horn toots. No unfriendly honks or gestures.

The guys at the ACA office were kind of incredulous that I would start a bike tour on busy MT 200. Of course they favor biking south through the Bitterroot valley because that's the TransAmerica route. I did that in 2013 and enjoyed the river and Bitterroot mountain views. But most of the bike trail is so close to busy US 93 that it's almost as loud and irritating as the shoulder of MT 200. And for scenery, I prefer the remote canyons of MT 200 over the wide densely populated Bitterroot valley.

Most of today's route is forested narrow canyons. But a big valley opened up in the middle of the day-the Potomac valley. Interesting name. A few miles of irrigated farms added variety to today's route.

There was an early afternoon rain shower. Rain seems to be a daily, but short-lived thing. I didn't put on a jacket.

I wasn't expecting any services along today's route. But there it was, a Sinclair gas station in the rural community of Potomac. I didn't stop.

Unexpected store in Potomac. Road almost dry after the shower.

Today's ride is long and mostly uphill, but grades were 3% or less, and I had the benefit of a brisk tailwind all day. It wasn't extremely difficult, but I deliberately pedaled slowly to avoid fatigue and avoid upsetting my stomach.

Descending from a 3900 foot summit. A thousand feet higher than Missoula.

I felt much better in the afternoon, but still tried not to work very hard. The tailwind was very helpful.

I saw at least 40 roadside crosses alongside MT 200.

It's Friday. Traffic was heavy all day and most of the traffic was going in my direction, away from Missoula.

I saw several double crosses and this triple cross.

Clearwater river, a tributary of Blackfoot river.

Half of the traffic turned left at the second Sinclair station, towards Glacier National Park. I went straight, enjoying the lower traffic. By then it was so late that traffic was lighter and mostly going in the opposite direction-towards Missoula.

Today had a high temperature of 75F. With the late start, the temperature was in the upper 60's and low 70's all day. The early afternoon rain shower wasn't very troublesome.

The Blackfoot and Clearwater rivers are popular for catch and release Bull Trout fly fishing.

It was a long day. I arrived in Ovando at 6:35 PM and checked in to the inn. The man said the only place open for dinner is Trixi's bar and grill 1/4 mile up the hill. Actual walking distance was at least 1/2 mile. I wasn't thrilled, but the downhill walk afterwards was easy.

Tonight's home is the inn at 1897 Blackfoot Commercial Company. Ovando, Montana.

Bikes aren't allowed in the rooms, so my bike was stored downstairs in the kitchen.

Bessie Young room at Blackfoot Commercial Company. Has a private bath and A/C. Shared kitchen and living room downstairs.

I walked up a big hill to have dinner at Trixi's bar and grill.

Ovando is tiny but it has many interesting things to see and explore.

Breakfast tomorrow will be at The Stray Bullet cafe.

Old jail. Presumably moved from a place called Hoosgow.

Ovando is a tiny town, population 47. Middle of nowhere, but it's a major stop on the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. Tiny Ovando very much caters to mountain bikers, with two dedicated cyclist campsites. One mountain biker was staying at the inn and I saw several other mountain bikers at the store. They don't see many road bikers like me.

Ovando is also famous for a tragic incident that took place in July 2021. A 65 year old woman was dragged from her tent and mauled to death by a Grizzly bear. She had food in her tent. Ovando has MANY warning signs about bears, and many bear proof food lockers and trash cans.

The grassy campsite has a sign warning that sprinklers turn on at 10 AM. Also a bear proof food locker.

The gravel bike campsite has a teepee and gypsy wagon, a Porta Potty, and a food locker.

The Teepee is donation price. Has a carpet but no mosquito netting.

The Gypsy Wagon is $5 per night. Wide view exaggerates depth.

Meriwether Lewis and his Newfoundland dog Seaman passed through here in 1806.

I ended the day feeling pretty decent considering the distance and climbing, and how bad I felt this morning. The tailwind helped.

The heavy traffic wears me down mentally. Most days of this tour will have far less traffic.

Distance: 53.1 miles
Average Speed: 8.4 mph
Ascent/Descent: +2061/-1073 feet

Today's ride: 53 miles (85 km)
Total: 61 miles (98 km)

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Kelly IniguezFeeling ill is not a fun way to start a tour. I’m glad it was temporary.
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