August 30, 2023: Costa Nova to Praia de Mira

August 30, 2023

Making friends with flamingos

Accommodations: Granny's Guesthouse (9).

Feeling that we have fully adapted to Portuguese time, and sure enough, I was awake around 730 am and we were both up around 800 am. Today would not be too long and the forecast showed a wind at our backs once we left the island - we had to backtrack to the bridge and cross the channel from the island to get back onto the EuroVelo 1 track on the other side of the lagoon.

Nobody was stirring in the guesthouse so we packed up quietly and let ourselves out - on the road around 830 am. Initially, we had to head north which was straight into the wind but it was not too bad, though a wee bit cool. I think it was 16 C.

We crossed the huge bridge across the channel but then we had a tricky manoeuvre to do - since the right side cyclepath of the bridge was closed for maintenance, we had to cross on the left side. This meant that on the other side, we had to cross a four-lane highway to get back onto our desired route. Though it seemed a bit scary, there were the occasional breaks in traffic from both directions, so I was able to get Alex and one bike over to the other side, return for the other bike, and make the second crossing with my bike. Then it was clear sailing.

I forgot to snap pics of the hostal's back deck yesterday and wanted to show that our bikes were safe and sound. -- Costa Nova, Portugal

Though no breakfast is served here (sadly), as in many accommodations, there is a full kitchen available to guests. We used it to eat our sandwiches, mango and grapes. Later in the evening we heard a group of guests preparing something that had a tonne of garlic and smelled heavenly. -- Costa Nova, Portugal

As is often the case, once leaving a non-designated cycle path and returning to a cycle path, it is like night and day. As soon as we left the bridge we were on tiny roads with a designated bike path and soon onto a dirt path that was a cycle and walking route with no motorized traffic. In fact, when we wanted to find a cafe, we had to leave the path and take a road about 250 m into a village - the locals always know where to find a cafe and this place did not disappoint. There was a tiny little cafe where a young woman was having her breakfast beer and a few locals were inside having their morning espresso and gossip chat. We got some drinks and a few snacks and enjoyed them on the deck. A few people walked by, a few cars went by, but otherwise, none of the shoulder-to-shoulder tourist-filled chaos of some places.

Our EuroVelo 1 route hugged the edge of the lagoon - across the water from where we had stayed last night. -- Near Garfanha da Encarnacão, Portugal

Back onto the EV 1 route we continued for a few tens of km along a dirt path that hugged the shore of the lagoon, passed through some pine forests, and went through some small villages as we approached our destination.

The aromas from the trees and farms were heavenly. We both felt strong, the bikes were working perfectly, and the wind continued at our backs. What could be better? When I asked Alex to rate the tour at this point - he gave it a nine out of ten, and the last point was only due to his internal sense of practicality - there is always room for improvement so there is never perfection. I gave it a ten - I was perfectly happy.

Knowing that we were close, we stopped for another drink and snack before rolling the last km or two to our guesthouse, where I had stayed last year. Though we were early, the receptionist said our room was ready and welcomed us to room 9 in the new section, which is upstairs. It was a very pretty room with views out the front to the street, the little bridge and the canal.

Just before arriving to our guesthouse we heard the siren cry of a cafe in the distance, so we had to stop for more hydration and more carb loading. -- Praia de Mira, Portugal

Our stay in this guest house is for two days so I did some extra laundry and the cleaning people said I was welcome to use the clothesline to dry our things. I explored the restaurant situation, finding what sounded like another good nearby restaurant which offers porc alentejana. We'll try again. When we headed out for a walk we stopped by the restaurant to ask when they serve dinner and we were told they start around 830 pm so we would have a while before dinner as it was only 330 pm.

Just across from the guesthouse along the canal was a pleasant walkway under the huge plane trees. -- Praia de Mira, Portugal

We went up the street which was up over the huge sand dune and to the beach. This time we pulled off our socks and shoes and headed down to the water's edge to enjoy the waves. More than a few times, some rogue waves roared up against us so that Alex ended up quite wet, and I got quite a splashing, too. But it was fun!

We headed to the next breakwater which was about two km down the beach alternating between water's edge and up in the dry sand when it looked like the waves were a bit too fierce. Red flags were up and lifeguards were whistling any swimmers back onto shore. According to one lifeguard there were no rip tides at this beach today (though they are seasonal) but the waves were too rough and could injure people.

While last year when I was here I was the only one on the beach, today there were many people congregated around the walkway at the centre of town. As we headed away from the centre the people dwindled out until the beach was almost empty. And all along the beach the waves thundered in. -- Praia de Mira, Portugal

We headed back down the beach and onto the street where we stopped at a little supermarket for a few snacks since we still had a few hours' wait until supper time.

My luck continues. Here was a group of young guys in a brass and drum band playing a variety of tunes really well. -- Praia de Mira, Portugal

Pookie goes to Portugal. -- Praia de Mira, Portugal

Dinner for us was at 8 pm when we headed up along the canal to a restaurant. Many people were out and about as they tend to do here before dinner. A band was setting up on a stage but only ended up playing one tune. A small grouping of amusement rides was set up across the canal. And the Blue Moon was rising over the distant inland hills.

The restaurant had porco a alentejana (sp?) which is marinated pork cooked with classic, garlic and olive oil, served with roasted or fried potato chunks. Though not the best I have had, it was good and we both enjoyed it.

Though it would have been nice to wander around town some more, it was chilly out and we were pretty tired. Rest day tomorrow before a longish day Friday.

Blue moon over the canal by our guest house. Quite a few people were doing the exact same thing. -- Praia de Mira, Portugal

Today's ride: 34 km (21 miles)
Total: 179 km (111 miles)

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