Day 14 - Ancona to Split by Ferry - Oh The Places You'll Go - 2025 - CycleBlaze

April 24, 2025

Day 14 - Ancona to Split by Ferry

Time to split (and other bad puns)

Heart 1 Comment 0

We woke up this morning docked in the harbour in Split. 

What a wonderful place.

Off the boat by 7:30, we made the short journey to find our very centrally located studio apartment, and it didn’t take long to see why the old town(e)* is mainly pedestrian. The three short staircases we had to negotiate to get to the square where are apartment was were ok, even with our loaded bikes, but it made us realize that this place is best negotiated on foot.

(* additional e added for Mark Bingham if he’s reading along)
Welcome to Croatia. Not a flat spot in sight!
Heart 4 Comment 2
Lyle McLeodTo Glenna JefferiesGrammatically not necessary. Brevity is the soul of wit.
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Within 3 minutes of leaving the ferry we were into the incredible jumble that is ‘old town’ Split
Heart 3 Comment 0
We saw a number of these motorized wagons delivering stuff, mainly fresh produce, to the huge number of restaurants near us (more on this later)
Heart 2 Comment 0
Bikes parked outside our apartment in a beautiful quiet (for now) square
Heart 4 Comment 2
Marjory SwordWhere were they parked?
Reply to this comment
4 days ago
Kirsten KaarsooTo Marjory SwordThey were just against the wall while we ate. Moved them into the hall way of our room building for the day and then our room for the night.
Reply to this comment
4 days ago

We couldn’t check into our apartment until 2 of but K had arranged for us to drop our bikes and bags off when we arrived.

The said square, with two restaurants in it, both open at 8 for breakfast and staying open until after 10 pm
Heart 4 Comment 0
Breakfast at Konoba Korta at 8 when they opened. Turns out that this is where our ‘apartment’ breakfast will be too.
Heart 2 Comment 0
Great food and fantastic, friendly and super helpful service from Karla.
Heart 3 Comment 2
Marjory SwordThat looks like a delicious breakfast!
Reply to this comment
4 days ago
Kirsten KaarsooTo Marjory SwordPerfect for cycle touring, protein& veggies.
Reply to this comment
4 days ago
The delivery wagon full of basil, lettuces, mushrooms and other delectable things
Heart 1 Comment 0

With our great  breakfast done we were then off to explore this incredibly beautiful and interesting old city.

A couple of warnings here:

There are a lot of pictures to go through, and I mean “A Lot”. I took far more than I’ve put in here but even so it would take me far too long to curate what I have dumped into here then into a really succinct and representative set. I don’t have time for that, believe it or not we have to do some biking!

Second, you might hear me go on and on about how lucky we are to be here in April. It’s already crowded and several locals we spoke to have commented that in the next few weeks the crowds will be insane. I get chills thinking of how many marauding Vikings (the cruise ship types wearing polyester pant suits and oversized sunglasses) will be here in August.

And my comment in the picture caption above about restaurants …. This is not our first time in Croatia. Back on our 2017 tour we spent 9 days in Croatia, totally unplanned, as we abandoned the EV6 Danube route in Novi Sad Serbia and headed west for the Alps. The Croatia we went through is not that Croatia that 99% of other people go to, i.e places like Dubrovnik or Split. Our Croatia was very rural and very nice, but we found it very difficult to find restaurants to get something to eat. It was incredibly ironic that most days we were cycling alongside wagons loaded with fantastic looking produce and wondering where it all ended up. The answer is here, on the coast.

There are probably more restaurants within a 50 m circle around our apartment here in Split than we say in the seven days it took us to cycle from Vukovar to Zagreb in 2017. As of today, we’ll finally have some common reference points to talk about Croatia to other folks who’ve been here.

Ok, I’ll shut up, after I give a shout out to Apartment Aborda, very nice and a fantastic location, and also to Konoba Korta, our breakfast place in the same square. Highly recommend if your in Split.

Here’s Aunt Betty’s overfilled picture album of Split. Sit down and endure as she wades through them with you.

Now we’re off to get lost in the old town maze
Heart 2 Comment 0
Look down, sideway or up …. There’s always something wonderful to see
Heart 3 Comment 0
Good to be out early. Later in the day this was almost wall to wall people - in April
Heart 2 Comment 0
Just outside the walls of the old town and the statue of Gregory of Nin (Grgur Ninsky in Croatian), the medieval bishop of Nin. He introduced the Croatian language to Mass so folks could follow along. Given the antiquity of everything else around here, this is pretty modern, dating from 1929.
Heart 1 Comment 0
I keep forgetting that it was just Easter!
Heart 3 Comment 0
The Old Town walls. This was a beautiful day.
Heart 2 Comment 0
Croatian themed eggs
Heart 1 Comment 0
Greg’s toe. Like so many other statues around the world they develop ‘good luck myths’ about rubbing parts of them. In this case, his left big toe
Heart 1 Comment 0
The Nest!
Heart 1 Comment 0
Took this to capture the layers and levels of streets and passages in this tangle called Spit
Heart 2 Comment 0
Greg’s really giving it to somebody
Heart 1 Comment 0
Little stuff like this all over this place. Little jewels to be discovered
Heart 4 Comment 1
Mike HadenThe little jewels encourage us to wander aimlessly, don’t they?
Reply to this comment
5 days ago
Like this stair case leading to a very tiny church
Heart 0 Comment 0
One of the smallest in Split. Room for two chairs. But it’s a real church
Heart 2 Comment 0
Laundry day on this street
Heart 1 Comment 2
Glenna JefferiesThat's a lot of black clothing.
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Kirsten KaarsooTo Glenna JefferiesYes. They seem to like black! Kind of boring.
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Heart 1 Comment 0
It took a while to get this picture … I wanted to show the highly polished paving stones. … with no people in it. Got the shot!
Heart 3 Comment 0
There was some big stuff too, lovely squares and towers … but we still seems to be drawn to the narrow twisted lanes
Heart 0 Comment 0
Wonderful open dome with great acoustics …..
Heart 4 Comment 0
…. As these guys were demonstrating
Heart 1 Comment 0
…. Inside the walls you could easily forget that you were right beside the Adriatic Sea and some amazing beaches
Heart 1 Comment 0
Back inside the walls…. It kind of got overwhelming
Heart 1 Comment 0
Heart 0 Comment 0
…phew, back out for a breather along the (beautiful) beach boardwalk
Heart 1 Comment 0
Incredibly cool fountain a funnel … Pirja - with a fisted hand - figa, squirting water into it.
Heart 4 Comment 0
Oh yeah, we’re still by the sea.
Heart 2 Comment 2
Kirsten KaarsooTo Jacquie GaudetYes, it was busy, I can’t imagine what it will be like in July! Never mind adding in the heat.
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Oh I know, we need a nap too. Our first ‘trip kitty’. every tour needs one
Heart 2 Comment 0
Just another cool thing along the street, so easily overlooked
Heart 1 Comment 2
Glenna Jefferieshistorical window tax?
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Kirsten KaarsooTo Glenna JefferiesHaha that could be!
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Trip kitty’s sibling chilling in the shade of a table. Time for us to check in to our apartment and chill out too.
Heart 3 Comment 0
Out for an evening stroll before dinner
Heart 2 Comment 0
Just because it’s beautiful
Heart 2 Comment 0
…. And so is this
Heart 2 Comment 0
Heart 1 Comment 0

Dinner was at Zinfandel, a small place serving contemporary Croatian cuisine and wines. 

Mussels with figs, really really good
Heart 2 Comment 0
Tuna tartare - also really good
Heart 2 Comment 0
Beet, grapefruit and caramelized almond salad
Heart 7 Comment 5
Anne MathersIt tingles my tastebuds, just looking at it!
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Kirsten KaarsooTo Anne MathersIt was good. If I tryand make it I would add a bit more grapefruit.
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Laurie WebberTo Kirsten KaarsooI’ll be your Guinea pig 😬
Reply to this comment
5 days ago
Kirsten KaarsooWe will give it a try when we get home.
Reply to this comment
5 days ago
Marjory SwordThat looks delicious!
Reply to this comment
4 days ago
K’s Hama (sea bream) with smokey creamy potatoes and Swiss chard
Heart 2 Comment 0
Seared tuna with olive tapenade, tomatoes and red pepper puree
Heart 2 Comment 1
Anne MathersKudos to the chef. I could not, in my wildest dreams, imagine something so beautiful by reading the menu and seeing ‘seared tuna, tomatoes and red pepper puree’. Wow, just wow!
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Finished with a ‘not quite constructed’ lemon tart. Everything was excellent and we paired it with a few glasses of Croatian wine varietals.
Heart 2 Comment 0

SOTD

Should be Song if the Night. K was acing Name That Tune last night over dinner, this was one of the classics being spun.

Wonderful Tonight by Eric Clapton

We’re done. That’s a lot to squeeze into a day where we only pedalled about 800 m.Good night from Split, an incredible place.
Heart 6 Comment 1
Marjory SwordPat and I loved split. Thank you for all the photos. I am watching them all as I am sitting on the couch with my leg up.
Reply to this comment
4 days ago

Today's ride: 1 km (1 miles)
Total: 679 km (422 miles)

Rate this entry's writing Heart 11
Comment on this entry Comment 10
Scott AndersonIsn't Split an astonishing place though? As much as we loved it though we'll never go back after seeing it during Covid when the streets were almost empty. It will never be like that again.
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Karin KaarsooHad you picked that restaurant for dinner ahead of time? Looks delicious.
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Kirsten KaarsooTo Karin KaarsooNo we picked it out at Breakfast. It was very tasty.
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Lyle McLeodTo Karin KaarsooIt was in the Michelin guide, with only a 2 euro price tag. That’s a real sweet spot. It may be lazy, but we usually look at the Michelin guide and if there’s something there that looks like what we want and reasonably priced. That’s what we do. Simple and cuts the hunt time down to almost nothing, plus I’ll take the Michelin recommendations over a google rating every single time
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Karin KaarsooCan't argue with that logic!! Seems to be a successful system. But 2€???
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Anne MathersI’m out of words to describe that dinner, but to say that it will (and Split in general) be a long lasting sweet memory for the two of you. ❤️
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Kirsten KaarsooTo Karin KaarsooIt doesn’t cost 2€ it is the classification system like cost one $ sign for cheaper, $$ a bit more etc
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Lyle McLeodTo Anne MathersThanks Anne,
It was a great night, but watch this space! We just had another great night in Šibenik at a very family run place
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Lyle McLeodTo Scott AndersonApril is not covid, but it’s probably as close as you could come now. It must have been devastating for a huge portion of the people whose livelihood is based on tourism.
Reply to this comment
1 week ago
Karin KaarsooTo Kirsten KaarsooGotcha! Thought that might be the case but wasn't sure.
Reply to this comment
1 week ago