Day 15 - Cologne rest day - Six weeks in Europe

July 5, 2023

Day 15 - Cologne rest day

We had our second and last rest day in Cologne today. Cologne is famous for its amazing cathedral that was started in the 1200s and finished in the 1800s. It sat in a semi finished state for over 400 years during which Napoleon used it as a barracks and stables. The cathedral was not destroyed in WWII unlike the rest of the city that was 90% destroyed by aerial bobbing mostly by the RAF. In fact it was used as a navigational tool so it was important to the Allies to keep it standing. It did suffer some damage but not much. Interesting all of the artifacts including the amazing altar were dismantled, removed and buried until after the war at which point they were returned to the cathedral. When you see the photos you will see what an amazing feat this was. Because the city was destroyed most of the modern infrastructure is not very interesting.

I learned all of this on another “Free Walking Tour”. It is free but the expectation is that you will tip generously. I have good success with these in many locations now. We also saw some of the Roman ruins that are you remain and one of three medieval gates.

Today was cool and very windy so we were happy to not be on our bikes. We have 5 more days of cycling ending on the 10th at our hotel at the Amsterdam airport. We have an extra day in Amsterdam before flying home on the 12th. I am ready to go home now after 5+ weeks (I miss Murphy) but I will finish what I started.

That is not the cathedral but another church in the background of the colourful houses.

A bit of a side angle. The spires on this building are 157m or 515ft high. The top of the spire with the flower weighs by itself 47 tons. The cathedral can withstand a 7.1 earthquake.

The medieval gate where our tour started.

The city crest with crowns and 11 flames for 11 vestal virgins.

These are called stumble stones. They are gold plated stones imbedded among the cobblestones and slightly raised so people stumble on them and look down. They have the names of people who lived in the adjacent building and were deported by the Nazis. If their fate is known it is also inscribed. They exist in several places in Europe but this is my first time seeing them.

An interesting mural depicting the struggle to preserve art against the business, profit driven sector. A local artist used the banana painted on the wall to signify the best galleries in town.

Before and after photos from WWII of the cathedral

The altar that was taken apart and buried until after the war.

The pulpit and statues that met the same fate.

Some of the Roman walls found now in a parking garage.

Side doors of the cathedral, one for the arch bishop, one for the pope when he visits and a third for pilgrims.

An example of banana on the wall of a gallery

What once was the city hall has several statues representing characters in history. Here is Agripina a significant figure in the Roman history here. Firstly, 4 of her husbands mysteriously died and she gave birth to Nero.

Look carefully at this one. This fellow was a former mayor of Cologne who thought is was a good idea to tax beer. Look below the statue and you will see what the citizens thought.

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