Dades Gorge to N'kob

March 8, 2023

Today was the hardest day of the tour – almost 40 miles and over 3300 ft of climbing. And, after a blissful few days in the mid-70s, afternoon temperatures were predicted to rise to the mid-80s, reaching into the 90s later in the week. In the end, though, it was a fantastic day of challenges met, rewards savored, and new friendships formed.

Before cycling, though, we had a short transfer in the van that included a brief stop at an overlook. offering an expansive view of Boumaine Dades strung along the Dades River.

Boumaine Dades, from an overlook across the river

Thumbs up from the trinket salesmen at the Boumaine Dades overlook

Soon we were on the bikes, facing fourteen uphill miles on dirt/gravel/tarmac before reaching the Tizi-n-Tazazert Pass at 7,572 ft. The route started on gravel, gently ascending through shimmering almond trees and ever smaller villages. We had a short water stop supplemented with figs and nuts and then the serious climbing began – three miles of ever steepening switchbacks on gravel, followed by a second three miles on tarmac reached to the summit.

It was tough going, but with a couple of photo/rest stops I made it through the series of switchbacks and had about a mile to go before reaching the tarmac. Suddenly, I saw Frank approaching on Beata’s eBike. They had reached tarmac, where she waited while he came to give me an E-assist. Wow! And what an assist it was – a little push of the pedal and I just cruised up the hillside, greeting Beata with a big smile and hearty thank you.

Frank soon joined us on my bike and we played musical bikes for the remainder of the ride to the summit – with Beata and me riding both the eBike and my bike over the next three miles and Frank doing double duty to facilitate the exchange. Finally, we were all at the top, sipping mint tea at the Auberge Tiza Café & Restaurant, savoring our achievement, sharing stories, and enjoying splendid views of the Jbel Sagbro range.

Starting off on the big climb of the day

Even the sheep are shimmering in the morning light

No matter how small, most Berber villages have a mosque and brightly painted school

A nice spot for dates, nuts and a short rest

A look back, and a chance for a brief rest

Here comes Frank, riding my bike after giving me an eAssist

Beate and Frank, ready to pass off my bike while I return Beate's eBike

Taking a broad look from the road to the top - our support van is barely visible, dwarfed by the expanse and distance

Happy cyclists at the top - Jerod, Susan and Frank

Lead guide Lachem loves to tell stories, with Hal is content to just take it all in

My heroes, Beata and Frank - a German couple from near Münster. Both kind, thoughtful adventurous. They've known Bekah and Hal since meeting years ago in Zambia and the four of them have taken several holidays together

I dare say that the euphoria of reaching the summit was surpassed by the joy of the descent – a12 km downhill on smooth tarmac that gently wound through the starkly beautiful Jbel Sagbro range. And there were no cars – I recall only a single vehicle, one that passed from the opposite direction. Once down the mountain, we stopped for a picnic lunch prepared by the crew – a refreshing Moroccan salad of chopped tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, and peppers with corn, olives, oranges, and avocadoes – served with mint tea and bread in a small, one-room building cooled by thick earthen walls. We lounged on cushions and pillows, relaxed, sated and happy.

The last fifteen miles were went quickly – mostly flat with a bit of fundulating all the way to the oasis city of N’kob, home to 45 kasbahs. There was an arranged stop at a gas station/market on the edge of town where I managed to gulp down an orange soda and a poor imitation of a nutty-putty – some of my touring favorites that I’d been missing the last few days. Then it was off the hotel where a poolside glass of mint tea was delivered before our room key.

Our lunch spot was in a small room off this square

Mint tea, courtesy of Lachem and the crew

As regular readers of CycleBlaze might know, I am in Morocco at the same time at Racpat, also known as Rachael and Patrick. We’d been in touch since their plans were revealed months ago, wondering if there would be a chance for a meet-up. Though we would be oh so close, the chance of getting together seemed a bit slim as my plans were fixed and they had a ferry to catch. As fortune would have it, the stars aligned and we are both in N’kob tonight. And after a couple of poolside emails over mint tea, we arranged to meet at my hotel at 6:30.

Racpat rolled into the hotel courtyard and we all shared big smiles and hugs. After deciding to stay at my hotel for dinner, we retreated to the terrace and exchanged Moroccan stories while flipping through the pictures of my tour to date. Conversation flowed easily as we moved from the terrace to the dining table, transforming an online bond into a real-life friendship. It was over much too quickly, and we departed looking forward to our next encounter – in Boise or somewhere on the road ahead. Safe travels, Racpat.

Another warm and wonderful CycleBlaze meet-up

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Rachel and Patrick HugensGreat description of the day
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1 year ago

Today's ride: 40 miles (64 km)
Total: 96 miles (154 km)

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Suzanne GibsonWhat a fantastic day!
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1 year ago

Kathleen JonesType your comment here
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1 year ago