St. Marc - Paimboeuf: The bridge across the Loire - Brittany - Loire Valley - Burgundy

June 17, 2010

St. Marc - Paimboeuf: The bridge across the Loire

We have a cool and sunny morning for the coast down the hill into St. Nazaire. We have reached the Loire and have left the hills and hopefully the stormy weather of Brittany behind us. I love the view of the wide beach of white sand and sparkling sea.

At St. Nazaire we reach the Loire estuary

Being strategically located, the port of St. Nazaire witnessed chapters of both World Wars. During World War I, the city became an important unloading port of the allied troops. Some 20 years later the port became a base of operations for the Kriegsmarine (German Navy) and was as such the target of Allied operations. A heavily fortified submarine base was built shortly after occupation. Its nine m (30-ft) thick concrete ceiling was capable of withstanding almost any bomb in use at the time.

Statue of Eagle and US Soldier: originally an American Memorial raised in 1926 to commemorate the American Troops' arrival in 1917. In 1941 the German occupation destroyed the statue. The present statue, inaugurated in 1989, is a reconstruction.

The tourist office is located in the giant concrete complex that was constructed for the German submarine pens.

The shipping port of St. Nazaire at the beginning of the 20th century, innocent of what the century had in store.

Pens for the German submarines in Word Ward II

Instead of taking on the daunting and unfinanceable task of razing these concrete structures, the city of St. Nazaire decided to put them to use. They are intended to create a bridge between the past and present. Shops and the tourist office are located on the ground floor. On the top of the buildings there is an open-air exhibit with pictures and text on St. Nazaire in WWII. There are also benches where we had a picnic, walkways and a roof-top garden.

I am disappointed that I am not able to find a warmer sleeping bag in St. Nazaire. The one large sports shop we find has nothing suitable so I buy warm long underwear instead and hope I won't freeze the next time we camp.

After a picnic on the roof of the submarine pens - what an unlikely spot for a picnic - we tackle the bridge. Janos is all for following the north bank of the Loire until we reach a better point for crossing but I know better. We must take this bridge because we don't want to cycle through the heavy industry on the other side. I soon come to regret being so stubborn, and as I later find out, wrong. The shoulder is very narrow, the traffic, which includes large trucks, has only one lane and there is a substantial gradient. We live to tell the tale, but it wasn't pleasant. I later read tht there are also lovely country roads on the north bank.

Approaching the bridge over the Loire - it can't the THAT bad, can it?

Yes, it can. I hated it. When I heard a truck coming, I stopped walking and squeezed to the side. They came dangerously close.

As you can see there is not much room for the cyclist.

When we reach the other side, we both feel we need a shot of whisky to calm the nerves. Our route now takes us through pleasant countryside on some dusty roads. By this time it is hot and I'm feeling worn out before we reach the town we are aiming for. I am again disappointed at my lack of stamina but decide stopping is the wisest. And so we stay in Paimboeuf.

After the stress of crossing the bridge, I now think I am in heaven - in spite of the rough road surface.

Paimboeuf isn't much of a town but it has a supermarket and a large campground where we are the only campers. We set up our tent and then cycle to the market to buy supplies for a delicious pot of pasta topped with sour cream and cheese and a bottle of red wine to go with it. Oh yes, and we have a picnic table! Not to be taken for granted and much appreciated. We have almost finished our meal when the first drops of rain fall.

We are the only campers on the entire campground and have our choice of site. We stupidly chose a site directly under the lantern that was on all night.

Janos and the spirits - wine on one side and fuel for the Trangia cooker on the other.

Today's ride: 47 km (29 miles)
Total: 535 km (332 miles)

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