Saumur - Chinon: The high road and the low road - Brittany - Loire Valley - Burgundy

June 23, 2010

Saumur - Chinon: The high road and the low road

From the campground we have a fabulous view of Saumur's chateau. The castle, which looks over the confluence of the River Loire and River Thouet, was constructed towards the end of the 12th century. As time went by, additional fortifications were added, including the original towers being replaced by the current octagonal towers in the 14th century. From the early 17th century the castle was used as an army barracks and then as a prison during Napoleon's era. The castle has now been restored.

After a short ride around the town of Saumur and some irritation with the traffic, we set out along the Loire. When we reach the turn-off for Fontevraud Abbey, Janos changes his mind and decides he does not want to make the detour as planned. All of sudden I find myself alone on the steep climb. But I am sticking to the plan. And it's a push-and-gasp climb. Janos was right. But I'm not turning back now.

The profile makes it look like I was going up the side of a wall - and it felt like it, too.

At kilometer 18 I reach Fontevraud Abbey, founded by the itinerant reforming preacher Robert of Arbrissel. The first permanent structures were built between 1110 and 1119.

General view of the complex. (Picture from the Wikimedia Commons)

The Abbey very quickly became one of the most powerful in Europe and ruled over a monastic empire stretching from England to the Iberian peninsula. I read in Wikipedia: "The abbey was a double monastery, with both monks and nuns on the same site. An international success ..." Understandably so, I'd say. Thirty-six abbesses, some of them from royal lineage, succeeded one another at its head, having authority over the women as well as the men.

During the French Revolution, the Order of Fontevrault was dissolved. The abbey became a prison in 1804, actually a fortunate circumstance. Otherwise the abbey buildings would probably have detiorated due to neglect. Jean Genet described the experiences of a thirty-year-old prisoner at Fontevrault in his semi-autobiographical novel, Miracle de la rose, although there is no evidence that Genet was ever imprisoned there himself.

This is the kitchen or smoke house, restored at the start of the 20th century by the architect Lucien Magne who added a Byzantine style turret to each chimney.

The tortoise shell pattern of the stone roof is a feature of many religious buildings in Poitou.

The latest restoration of the abbey is very recent, there has not yet been anough time for the sharp edges of the stones to soften or any moss to grow or ivy to creep up the new walls. Nevertheless, it is an immense architectural accomplishment with a rich history.

Beautifully set in the Fontevraud Valley, the Abbey is on the border of three provinces, Anjou, Touraine and Poitou.

Janos has shopped for a picnic lunch and is waiting for me on the Loire at Montsoreau. Reunited, we continue our journey. At Cande-St-Martin we abondon the Loire and follow the Vienne River to Chinon.

Chinon has a campground and that's where we stay. I remember shopping for dinner, but I no longer have a clue what the campground looked like.

The table (tarp on the ground) is set with sporks and Orikaso, the first course is carrot salad from the suprermarket.

Today's ride: 40 km (25 miles)
Total: 799 km (496 miles)

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