June 3, 2010
Morlaix - Sizun: Taking it for granite
Sorry about the pun - but granite architecture and sculpture were the highlights of the day. You could take almost everything for granite.
Had a great sleep and enjoyed the too expensive hotel breakfast. Then we're off to look at the pretty old town with cobble stone streets and timber and stone houses and interesting facades before we embark on the first of the many hilly roads of Brittany.
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It's hilly. I am already looking forward to the flat bike paths along the Loire which we will reach later. But we have done a bit of cycling this spring and I'm feeling fit. It's only after a few weeks and when the heat comes that my legs begin to feel the cumulative fatigue from the constant up and down in Brittany.
We started our tour in Morlaix and not in Brest, which would have been even further west and the end of the train line, because Janos has planned a route from here through towns with the unique "Parish Closes", or "Enclos Paroissiaux". Within the parish walls are the church, cemetary, ossuary and sculpted granite Calvary cross. Mainly built during the 16th and 17th centuaries, these impressive sculptured monuments are the best form of Breton art you can find. When I see these sculptures inspired by religion I am somehow reconciled with the Catholic church in spite of all the self-righteous and intolerant atrocities it has been responsible for over the centuries.
Below are different shots from the Parish Closes we saw at Saint Thégonnec and Guilmiliau, two of the best preserved and most elaborate Closes in Brittany. The intricacy and detail of the sculptures and their sheer abundance was astounding. Working with limestone is one thing, but granite? Surrounding the Calvary are often familiar scenes from the life of Christ or the bible.
We're having hot weather and don't realize how much we should appreciate it - there are many rainy and cold days in store for us before the heat comes on again. Determined to start camping right away, we go to the campgrounds at Sizun on our first night, hoping that, even though we are no longer accustomed to sleeping in our tent, we're tired enough to sleep anywhere.
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Not many campers in early June, but in the neighboring tent are two young fellows with a set of bongos and a didgeridoo. I'm wondering how long they intend to play and am not too sure that I'm tired enough to sleep with the entertainment at such close quarters. However, at ten o'clock sharp there is silence. Wow, what a considerate younger generation.
Today's ride: 37 km (23 miles)
Total: 37 km (23 miles)
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