Sluis - Bruges - To France the Long Way

July 23, 2009

Sluis - Bruges

I didn't sleep well and am awake at 5:30 a.m., who knows why. Perhaps it was the uninterrupted patter of rain on the tent, which can be soothing but in this case it made me feel uneasy. We've had enough rain and I'm not eager for more. The rain stops for us to prepare breakfast but doesn't wait for us to pack up our tent. Janos is carrying a very wet - which means heavy - tent today. Fortunately, it's only a short hop to Bruges, our destination.

The bicycle route to Bruges is clearly signposted and would have been lovely but teeming rain spoils the fun. Again there is nothing to indicate the border between Belgium and Holland, we only recognize it on our map. Our first stop in Belgium is in Damme on the Zwin River about 6km before we reach Bruges. In the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries before the river Zwin silted up, the town was a significant port. The rain has stopped and we take a short stroll around the interesting little town before following the canal into Bruges.

On the way to the Belgian border in wind and rain

Following the canal, shortly before we cross into Belgium

This is probably the Dutch-Belgian border on the bike path.

The Uilenspiegel Museum in Damme. Uilenspiegel is a well known Flemish freedom fighter and joker. The Uilenspiegel story is over 350 years old and has appeared since the 16th century in the form of popular books.

Bruges is overwelming. What a conglomeration of old and beautiful buildings! We travel slowly into the center of town, stopping every few meters to snap another picture of the wonderful house fronts along the waterways. Then we reach the main square - and I'm appalled. The historic center of Bruges was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site nine years ago and is a real tourist magnet. The number of visitors milling around the main square is alarming. However, since so much of medieval Bruges is intact, you aren't limited to the main square. I am amazed at how much of the original architecture has been preserved, it's a treat.

We set up camp at Camping Memling a few kilometers to the east of the center. It's almost full when we check in around 2 p.m. and the tents are packed in like sardines. We're glad we decided against cycling on to Bruges yesterday evening as the camping sites are all taken by mid-afternoon. We also decide one night here will be enough. Right place, wrong time. Spring or fall would be much better for spending more time in this beautiful town.

We set up our tent to dry and spend the rest of the afternoon in town. On the way back, two of Janos's spokes break! Summing things up in the evening I reach a very negative balance for today: 1. not enough sleep, 2. broken spokes, again (the first time on this trip, but not the first time altogether), 3. bad weather, and 4. it's still a loooong way to my sister's near Toulouse. At this rate we'll never make it. My enthusiasm is dwindling and in this state of mind I'm not coming up with any good alternatives.

Today's ride: 25 km (16 miles)
Total: 2,008 km (1,247 miles)

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