Cheb - Luby - To France the Long Way

June 11, 2009

Cheb - Luby

Janos has been noticing that his front disk brake needs adjusting. Waiting for the bike shop to open and getting this taken care of takes the better part of the morning. Satisfied that the bike is again roadworthy, we decide to take the "bike path", shown in some brochures, from Cheb to Franzensbad. Maybe a hiking path, but no, it's not what I would call a bike path. This insight comes too late. We have already gone too far on the narrow path, worked our way around too many roots, holes and stones to turn back.

Janos scouts the path ahead - should we continue?

An early start wouldn't have helped - swiftly moving clouds, strong winds and frequent rain showers are what today's weather has to offer. Once we get over the first six or seven kilometers of dirt path, it doesn't take long to get to our first destination of the day, Franzensbad or Františkovy Lázne. Franzensbad is a small spa town founded in 1793 on the site of an old curative spring. The centre of the spa town is a large promenade, flanked by elaborate spa buildings dating back to the late 18th and the early 19th centuries. It's all very nice but somehow in the rain the fountains and palm trees don't impart that feeling of luxurious decadence that I had been looking forward to. We look around, have lunch and set out towards the German border to the north.

Franzensbad: Too much water in this watering-place

Signs of opulence of earlier days in Franzensbad

Traveller, if you come to Spa ... Wanderer, kommst du nach Spa ... (Heinrich Böll)

We ride through beautiful, unspoiled countryside of uncultivated fields and an abundance of wild flowers, with gentle hills in the distance.

A bit of sun as we continue from Franzensbad

Caught with my pants down - they're darned hot when the sun comes out

Unspoiled countryside, quiet roads and no road signs - the route on my GPS was very useful

In the course of the afternoon the clouds become darker and the wind stronger, forcing the trees which line the road to bend over as if in prayer. Or am I the one who is praying? The wind was in our favor when we left, but now it has changed direction and its fury feels threatening.

The weather adds a dramatic note to the otherwise peaceful countryside

We are hoping that we will find a room in Luby and our struggle will be over. We had originally intended to cover more ground today but I am very relieved to see a sign reading "penzion".

We are happy to find this simple "penzion" or B&B on the way out of Luby

Today's ride: 32 km (20 miles)
Total: 363 km (225 miles)

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