Grenoble to Auberives en Royans - Poking Around Europe 6.0 - CycleBlaze

May 13, 2019

Grenoble to Auberives en Royans

Gorges de la Bourne

We left Grenoble this morning and I felt a bit puzzled by it. The city had an amazing bike route in and out of town, beautiful architecture, but to me it felt just a bit shabby. Maybe this is because we arrived on a Sunday and everything was closed and the pedestrian area, when we went out looking for dinner, was dead. We did find a few open restaurants but it was unbelievably quiet. Maybe it was because my expectations were too high. Maybe it was because some clowns had painted graffiti over every sign on the bike route and every information sign we came across making them completely unreadable. As the GTW (Go This Way) device, to supplement the chief navigator’s GPS , I do like my signs. I think we need to give Grenoble another try. 

Beautiful old buildings.
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On our way out of town.
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Brett ClassenCliffs look nice for climbing
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5 years ago

One of the things we passed on our way out of town was a tent city beside the bike path, for lack of a better term. It was a sad sight and really made us reflect on our own good health and how incredibly fortunate we are in every way. My heart went out to those people. 

Crossing the river.
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Then it was up. A manageable grade, and we knew to expect it, thanks to the Andersons and to Jacquie Gaudet’s elevation profile.  The cars were very courteous and so were the trucks, but there were too many of them for our liking. A busy weekday. We aren’t nervous in traffic, but it is hard to appreciate the stunning scenery when we have to be so focused on riding the white line. Our least favourite are the trucks with pups. You think the great beast of a machine has passed you, but oh no, it is towing a trailer. We kept expecting the traffic to lighten up, but it really didn’t until the last turn to Pont en Royans. 

We saw this sign at regular intervals.
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Going up.
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Grenoble.
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We stopped for lunch at the side of the road (D531) almost half way up the climb, and while it wasn’t the most gorgeous spot we have picnicked it was so sunny, warm and comfortable Keith had to drag me out. I could have had a jolly good nap. 

This was such a comfortable picnic spot. We could watch the traffic coming up the hill and didn’t have to deal with it.
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The most hilarious moment of this part of the ride was when a truck went by with a sign and flashing lights that I loosely translated as extraordinary load. I glanced in my mirror and sure enough there was a house bearing down on me. I am not making that up. Two houses actually, one behind the other.  A very wide load, hence the pilot car.  Luckily we had a good bail out at hand and we took it. I am sure the truck with houses on the deck wouldn’t have run us down but we were happy to get out of the way. 

When we took the final turn to Gorges de la Bourne we suddenly had the road to ourselves. It was an amazing ride and experience, just indescribably beautiful. There are so many pictures it is impossible to choose. 

Magical bike touring land.
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This face. So sweet. She has a hand in Vercors blue cheese.
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The drama begins.
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We didn’t even know what was coming here.
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It just kept getting better.
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The scenery was over the top. The balcony road is a masterpiece of engineering. The ride was perfect. 

It was just head on a swivel, stop, stare, stop, stare beauty. We loved it.
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Everything everywhere was stunning.
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The tunnels were short and beautiful.
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The views just kept coming.
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Then almost too soon we were in Pont en Royans. What a spot.
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Love the foundations on these houses.
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I am not sure about those balconies though!!
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We carried on about six more km to Auberives-en-Royans.
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What an amazing spot we are staying in. A small Chambre d’hôte called Le Mas de Servant. We want to come back in July and stay a week and just explore the area. By the time we were joining our hosts for dinner we had decided we at least wanted to stay another night. Fully booked!!  But our lovely French speaking hosts recommended a spot and then called to ensure we can drop our panniers there in the morning and explore this magnificent area. We are happy. 

Our welcome beverage on arrival. There is a swimming pool as well, and so much to see in the area. What a great spot to stay.
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We find the Relive app really gives us an overview of where we have been. 

https://www.relive.cc/view/2364347932

Today's ride: 71 km (44 miles)
Total: 714 km (443 miles)

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Scott AndersonOh, hooray! I was hoping you would make it to the Vercors and get decent enough weather to appreciate it. Isn’t it the most incredible place though? It may be the spot in France I most hope to get back to some day.
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5 years ago
Kathleen ClassenTo Scott AndersonScott we thanked you a thousand times today. We rode up to Col de la Machine and it was one of the most amazing experiences we have had on a bike. Just astonishing. We were toying with the idea of doing Col de l’Echarsson as well but the road was fermé so that decision was made for us. Time for a beer.
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5 years ago
Helen StarkFollowing you daily. I am off to Winnipeg tomorrow for a week and just taking my phone but I should be able to see your journey there. It looks fabulous! You are in my thoughts and prayers. Love to you both.
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5 years ago
Anne MathersWe are nestled in at Barcelona for one night and reading your blog . We, too, are thrilled to see you are in the Vercors. It is so incredibly beautiful. The ride through the gorge, downhill, and Pont en Royans....I adore it. Enjoy your unloaded explorations of the Vercors 🥰
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5 years ago
Keith ClassenIt is truly an amazing place to cycle. We lucked out today. We had to move to new accommodations which put us at the base of the Col de la Machine. No planning here ... just a fluke. We got to our Chambre d’Hote around 2:00, had a quick sandwich and headed up on the advice of our host. We agreed that it was the most dramatic stretch of road we have ever cycled as we approached the summit. Looking forward to following along with you two.
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5 years ago
Kathleen ClassenTo Helen StarkHave a wonderful time in Winnipeg. I think of you more often than you can imagine. The last few days for us have been absolutely stunning. This is a beautiful area of France. Thank you for keeping me safe. It works 😀 and we appreciate it.
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5 years ago
Patrick O'HaraI might as well chime in here too (since Susanna and I are following all of your jounrals). Thanks for the pics. They brought back wonderful memories of our 2017 trip......Keep em' coming! Susanna and I are headed back for our 8th tour in 9 years in July/August. Porto to Bordeaux? Enjoying your journal
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5 years ago