Rained out in Rethymno - North to the Balkans - CycleBlaze

May 7, 2018

Rained out in Rethymno

Last night

First, let’s go back to last night’s arrival in Rethymno, since we left off the journal there.  Let’s start two great videos that Rachael offers up for our viewing pleasure.  The first is the descent from Cape Drapano - nice because it shows the roadside maquis I forgot to mention yesterday, as well a better look at the uncertain skies.  The next is of our entrance to Rethymno, featuring a group of club cyclists out on a training ride.

We checked into our bayside hotel about six.  It’s a beautiful old place, a restoration of a Venetian building.  There was some anxiety about our stay here, because they warned us several days ago that they had no capacity for bicycles but were sure something could work out. We were greeted by Krissa, an earnest, conscientious young woman who is apologetic but says they really can’t allow bikes in the rooms of their hotel.  She agrees to call her manager though ideas, and let us know what they can come up with later.  In the meantime, we lock our bikes together against the wall out front, check in to our room, shower, and go downstairs for dinner at the hotel’s fine restaurant.

We haven’t discussed finances yet on this tour, but for those that have been wondering I can report that you can travel quite inexpensively here.  We aren’t  budget travelers and not the best evidence for this, but as an example here is the receipt for our meal tonight, at a high quality restaurant in a prime location on the waterfront.  For 40 euros, we had a meal of  a large, shareable Caesar salad; lamb kleftico; chicken souvlaki; and a good bottle of wine.  Nearly half the billl was for the wine, and a splurge; the house wine would have been half that.  The net bill reflects a 10% discount as guests of the hotel.

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Back at the hotel, Krissa is pleased to let us know that they have two solutions for us - we can lock them in the hotel lobby, or there is a secured, locked storage space a few doors down the waterfront that we can use.  We are happy to choose the latter option, and are escorted down there by our waiter.

Returning to the hotel, we enter into an extended conversation with Krissa, who proves to be engaging, bright and delightful.  She is quite interested in our mode of travel, as well as our specific itinerary.  She is happy to hear that we are going to some of her favorite places in Crete and the rest of Greece.  She is also happy to hear how taken we are with Rethymno, which she thinks is the best city in Crete and one of the best in Greece as a whole.  

Krissa, our charming hostess for our stay in Rethymno. Once again, Rachael and I find a young woman we wish we could adopt.
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The staircase in our Venetian Hotel, Rethymno
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The staircase in our Venetian Hotel, Rethymno
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Like Chania, Rethymno has a graceful Venetian lighthouse protecting its harbor
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I think Rethymno has one of the prettiest, most pleasant seaside promenades anywhere.
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Rethymno’s lighthouse, from our hotel room
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This morning

One look out the window, and it’s clear that our planned loop ride to Spili is cancelled.  It’s pouring out, and is expected to continue most of the day.  Over breakfast we discuss how to spend the day.  Rachael has been having her own shifting issues with her bike, and wants to dad back to a bike shop we spotted on the way into town last night; and I want to explore the city.  It’s a good opportunity to divide and conquer: she puts on her wet weather gear for the short ride back to the bike store, and I head out with the camera.  We each have phones, and agree to get in touch later in the day.

Can there be many better feelings on a tour to have it pouring out on a day you were laying over anyway? Perfect planning, again!
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Suboptimal touring conditions this morning
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Rachael sets off for the bike store. The young woman ahead of her is running back to the hotel to escape the downpour after helping Rachael retrieve her bike.
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With Rachael off to visit the bike doctor, I keep my end of the bargain and head out to explore the town.  There is plenty to see, even in the rain.  Rethymno is a charming city, with its Venetian and Turkish roots showing through everywhere.  I wander around randomly for an hour or so during a lull in the rains, and then when they return with a real vengeance I find shelter in a cafe and enjoy a second filtered coffee.

Evidence of Rethymno’s Turkish heritage is seen frequently throughout the old town
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Even less fun without an umbrella
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In the old town, Rethymno
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In the old town, Rethymno
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Rethymno’s lighthouse - striking in any conditions
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A few hours later, we meet back at the hotel, both happy.  A great morning - I had an excellent morning exploring the city, and she is delighted at the job that’s been done on her bike.  A mild setback though - the key no longer works for the restaurant’s storage room, so her bike is locked out while mine is locked in.  For the meantime we lock hers up outside the restaurant and rust that the hotel staff will figure it out.

This afternoon

Fortunately, the problem of the unopenable lock was soon resolved.  There is a second door to the storeroom, around the corner and down the alley.  We were trying to open the wrong door.  We should have known that, because we were led there last night but didn’t really pay attention.  We make a mental note that this is something we need to remember to be conscious about in the future.

We stepped out in  mid afternoon  to a changed world.  Over the last how hours the storm front moved on to the west, leaving in ta way a beautiful clear day. We walk together through the old town, checking out possible dimmer venues and enjoying seeing the city in a brighter light.  After a git we move uphill to Rethymno’s fortress and enjoy the next two hours wandering around and being astonished by one great viewpoint after another.

In the evening, at Rachael’s insistence, we go to La Boheme for dinner.  She chose well -we share an excellent meal, one that Rachael thinks is the best of tour so far.  All in all, a perfect rest day:we both feel revived, Rachael is happy with her bike, and we feel ready for the remaining challenging days in Crete.

In Rethymno’s Old Town, considering the options
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In Rethymno’s Old Town
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Neratze mosque, Rethymno
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We haven’t been meeting our quota for cat photos in the journal
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Bruce LellmanNor beehive photos.
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6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanI’m hopeful. There’s still a lot of Greece ahead of us yet.
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6 years ago
Rachael AndersonTo Bruce LellmanThanks a lot Bruce. I was trying to convince him he had enough beehive photos. The other day we had a great descent with gorgeous views all the way from Aptera (Roman ruins) to Kalyves and he didn’t take a single picture. He was ahead and I couldn’t catch him. Fortunately, we went back up the next day since we had a short day to our destination.
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6 years ago
In Rethymno’s Old Town
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Rachael chastised me for this photo, because it shows so little of her meal (salmon with avacodo dressing), which she regards as the best of the tour. I like it this way though, because I don’t find her meal the most compelling subject.
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Rate this entry's writing Heart 4
Comment on this entry Comment 8
Ron SuchanekHi Bruce, loving the journal so far. I like the video clips and am wondering about the music. A few years ago I put some videos on Vimeo and added some music and they ended up getting removed for "copyright" issues. Have they changed that silly policy?
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6 years ago
Scott AndersonBruce? Have you forgotten already? Or are you guys still mad tha5 we stole Jen’s bottle opener? We promise to return it, really.

Actually, I’d never thought about the copyright question. I can’t believe that we’ll get enough traffic for anyone to care.

Are you on the road again, Sam?
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6 years ago
Bruce LellmanAndrea and I are having the Grumbys over for breakfast tomorrow morning and I imagine, obviously, that's all they can think or talk about.
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6 years ago
Andrea BrownHi, Sam here. Nope, still hanging around Portland.
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6 years ago
Bruce LellmanI spent a month traveling in Burma with Sam in 2001. Great guy, that Sam.
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6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanGreat! Show them our photos and remind them of who we are. Also tell Ron to get busy on his journal. He promised.
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6 years ago
Ron SuchanekTo Scott AndersonHahaha! Imagine my horror when he real Bruce informed me of my error this morning. No one ever accused me of being sharp, which is why Jen is the boss of the Grumby outfit. Please forgive my f-up. You'll always be Scott to me.
Your pal,
Ron a/k/a Sam.
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6 years ago
Scott AndersonIs OK. I’m too old to be overly sensitive. FYI, you can let the sharper half of the crew know that her opener is still in good hands. We plan to push the limits a bit though and look for some precarious sites to test our luck with it. Life on the edge!

Bob voyage!
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6 years ago