The Mastic Villages - Cycling Greece, Part 2 - CycleBlaze

May 24, 2012

The Mastic Villages

This was the shortest ride of the tour. Having plenty of time, we began the day with a walk along beautiful Mavras beach before setting off on the grueling 8 mile slog to Pirgi, the highlight of the day and perhaps of the entire tour.

Pirgi is the largest of the 'mastic villages' that Chios is reknowned for. These are fortified villages buit in the 1300's by the Genoese to support cultivation of mastic, a gum-like substance developed from tree sap. Pirgi itself is amazing and unique, and perhaps the biggest highlight of the entire tour for us. Many if not most of the walls of the village core are decorated in a beautiful geometric sgraffito. We walked through its streets with amazement at each corner we turned. We found the variety of color, pattern and overall effect to be almost overwhelming.

As if with all this Pirgi didn't have enough to its credit, it also claims to be the real birthplace of Christopher Columbus.

Beyond Pirgi, we stopped in next for a look at nearby Olympi, another of the mastic villages, before settling for the day at Mesta, yet another of these villages and the best preserved. Mesta is a small walled village, with most of the village within or a part of the walls. It's an interesting, almost gloomily claustrophobic place to wander through.

We ended the day with a hike, walking from Mesta to Olimpi and back. It was a pleasant walk, giving us a second look at Olimpi itself and a good look at the mastic trees still in cultivation. The real highlight though (low light, actually) was when we left the trail to walk up a small ridge for a close up look at a trio of ruined windmills. While working our way through the underbrush, my foot slipped into a concealed depression and I pitched forward, face planting myself into the brambled brush. Unable to move without making things worse, I lay sprawled there and wimpering until Rachael came to give a hand to help me back up. Yeowch!

The incredible walls of Pirgi, one of the Mastic villages
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Swallows nests, Pirgi
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Drying miniature tomatoes, Pirgi
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Pirgi
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Pirgi
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Checking out the video shots of amazing Pirgi
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Olimpi, another of the Mastic villages
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Patrick O'HaraYou have certainly put Greece on our minds for a potential tour this year. I imagine July would be rather roasting, though.
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3 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Patrick O'HaraYou’ve never been to Greece, have you? I’d stay away from the south and interior at this time of year, but I think you do better with heat than we do. We’ve only been in the spring, and by early June it was feeling too warm.

Based on average temperatures though, I think a tour in the islands would be OK if it’s not too busy. Lesvos, Chios, Naxos and Andros don’t see as much tourism and are all large enough for some serious cycling. I’d love to see any of them again, but especially Chios.

The other thing about the eastern islands though is the refugee situation. Lesvos has been overwhelmed for years by refugees crossing the waters from Turkey, so you’d want to check that out too before deciding on it. This is all new since we were there on this tour.
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3 years ago
Patrick O'HaraTo Scott AndersonThanks Scott! We have not been to Greece. Your journals are very tantalizing, though. We are on the fence about whether to travel abroad this year. I was thinking that the islands would be a great destination. Really enjoying reading about your adventures. The photos are particularly alluring.
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3 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Patrick O'HaraGood luck with getting to a decision and planning. FWIW, if it were me I’d sure go if it comes together with you. Assuming you’ve gotten your shots and are prudent, I wouldn’t avoid traveling because of Covid. Greece will be open, and I’d imagine it’s quieter this summer than it would be most summers because many folks are still hesitant about traveling.

I’m sure you know we’ve been 3 times now, and our island visits are scattered across all 3 journals. Let me know if you get to a place where we can help you with planning.
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3 years ago
A shuttered sidewalk cafe, Mesta
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In Olimpi
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In Olimpi
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A mastic tree, on the walk from Mesta to Olimpi
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Windmill ruins, near Mesta; my face-plant into the maquis nearby here was the low point of my day.
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Inside the walls, Mesta
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Today's ride: 15 miles (24 km)
Total: 841 miles (1,353 km)

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