Gates Pass

January 3, 2024

Sunny today, not too cold, not too windy. It’s likely the last day like this we’ll see for a while, as a cold spell looks like it’s moving in. It’s the best day for a more ambitious outing, so Rachael proposes joining me on a ride through Gates Pass to the visitors center in the west unit of the national park. We’ve taken this ride together twice before, but her memory of it isn’t too clear so I prepare her for it by reminding her that the pass itself is no big deal but roads on the far side are generally pretty rough. She’s still game though, perhaps thinking that the suspension seat post she’s gotten since the last time we did this ride will smooth it out enough for comfort.

We wait until about 10:30 to leave, trying to optimize between our usual constraints - leaving late enough for the day to warm up, but early enough so that we’ll make it back in time for a dinner reservation. I assure her that we should have plenty of time, especially since I’m not planning to hold us up for many photos.

As we bike west on University I look up and realize that we must be looking straight at Gates Pass cutting through the heart of the Tucson Mountains, something that hadn’t registered with me before.

That’s Gates Pass ahead, the low spot at the far left.

The climb to the pass begins gradually about four miles into the ride as Saint Mary’s Road transitions into Anklam Road and starts bending northwest between some low hills that front the range. This is a pretty stretch, as we climb through the Saguaro zone and get occasional nice views back toward town. I don’t stop for photos though because we’ve done this before and I’m keeping to my promise to Rachael to minimize the photo stops.

Before long we’re warmed up enough that it’s time to shed a layer. That’s when I discover I’ve forgotten my pannier because it’s AWOL when I go to pack my jersey into it. I set it down at home after packing my lunch snack in it and then forgot to load it onto the bike. This sets Rachael off to wondering if we’re ever going to have a fully normal, adversity-free day again.

That’s a concern of course, but I’m more worried about the fact that we’re out here without my tools and pump. We haven’t had a flat for months, which probably means we’ll get one now. Rachael checks her underbag and confirms that she’s got a pump though, so I hand her my jersey to pack away and we decide to continue on. As we start up again, I take the opportunity to fire off a quick shot and then race to catch up again.

Later when we arrive home Rachael states that she wants credit for carrying the pannier all day, which is certainly fair. For myself, this was the easiest ascent ever on this pass.

Into the climb. The route to the pass bends around some low hills on the left. That’s Bushmaster Peak ahead, the formation that borders the north side of the pass.

As advertised, the climb to Gates Pass from the east isn’t too bad. Not too long, not too steep, not too busy, just right. There’s about a mile and a half where there’s no shoulder, but the traffic is light and respectful. I’m sure it’s better to take this ride on a weekday morning though.

Nearing the summit we pull off at the side road to the viewpoint, and then stop at the top to admire the dramatic setting.

The view east through Gates Pass back toward Tucson. The low point on the horizon is Redington Pass, the saddle between the Catalina and Rincon mountains.

And then we drop off the west side of the pass, which is quite a different experience - much steeper, twisting, blind curves. Fortunately this stretch is short enough that you can watch for a gap in traffic and take the lane. After that it’s a fast several miles as the road straightens out, we keep losing elevation, and enjoy a tailwind. We sail along effortlessly at about 20 mph, while another pair of riders passes us going the other direction, one with his tongue flapping out and looking spent.

When we come to the junction with Kinney Road we slow down considerably as we come to the rough road I warned Rachael of. There’s about five miles of this alligator skin blacktop to be endured until we come to the junction with Mile Wide Road and the surface smooths out nicely for the drop to the visitor’s center. It’s a rough ride but nearly all of it is on McCain Loop Road, a very quiet route through lush cactus that would be one of my favorite roads in the region if it weren’t for the road surface. It’s very beautiful, but I keep my word and don’t stop for photos along the way.

I do make mental notes though, remembering that I’ll need to add the cactus wren and northern mockingbird to my bird talley when we get home tonight.

Dropping off the west side of the pass is much different than the other side. Take the lane.

We’re at the visitor’s center sitting at a viewing platform facing the mountains just long enough for Rachael to eat her lunch and share a small packet of trail mix she has along as an emergency provision. While she’s off at the loo I’m amused by a middle aged couple who walk up to the railing, and without even glancing up at the view immediately turn around and pull out the phone to take a shot of themselves with the mountains in the background, and then head to the souvenir shop. Look at us, we’ve seen the saguaros, they can brag to all their friends now.

I had mapped us to stay in Kinney Road on the way back, but McCain is so much quieter that it’s an easy decision to just backtrack these first few miles. We saw not a single car on the way out, but it’s much busier now - I think we see five in the next four miles. And this time I break my resolve and stop for a couple of quick shots.

I love this view southwest toward the Coyote Mountains.

And this one, east on McCain Road heading toward Golden Gate Mountain.

With the wisdom that comes from experience I find a different route home than in the past. Unless we’re going to recross Gates Pass there’s no choice but to make the long, rough drop down Kinney Road past Tucson Estates to Route 86 (Ajo road). After that though, I’ve routed us through the neighborhoods south of Ajo Road because Ajo itself is pretty unpleasant. It doesn’t look bad on paper - a fast, fairly straight downhill shot on a wide shoulder - but it’s just too busy and the shoulder too rough for enjoyment. The route we’ve picked today is fine though, and greatly increases the likelihood that we’ll repeat this ride someday.

Eventually we come to Irvington Road, also a fairly busy street but not nearly like Ajo; and the shoulder is smooth. It’s a nice descent all the way to the Loop, where we turn south for about a half mile and bike into the headwind before turning toward home just so we can add one critical mile to our day’s ride. Who’d want to stop at just 41, after all?

Some roadside (or actually, road median) art, on Irvington Road. We’re seeing about two thirds of this colorful critter, that I shot while waiting for the stoplight to turn. I should come back for a better photo some day.

On the way home we’re racing along downhill and with the wind, when too late I notice a hawk perched on the railing. It’s my one regret from the ride that I didn’t stop for it, but it was probably too late already. As he flies off I see he’s not the Cooper’s hawk I assumed at first, but a northern harrier. It would probably have been my best shot ever of that fairly elusive bird.

So, only three new birds for the day, not the five or ten I need if I’m going to keep up if I want a couple thousand for the year. I may need to lower my sights.

We come to Granada Avenue just too late, and miss beating the freight train racing in. We heard his whistle blowing loudly and repeatedly as we raced to beat it before giving up, but then see why maybe that horn was so insistent when a biker comes our way just ahead of it with a distressed expression on his face. Too close, Bucko.

Not bad. This thing is really flying, so we don’t have a long wait this time.

The view from our front porch when we return from dinner. Weather’s changing, and rain is due in a few hours.

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Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km)
Total: 896 miles (1,442 km)

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Janice BranhamGlad you liked Irvington. I think it's the best option for a loop over Gates Pass. Looking forward to riding that way in the next couple weeks.
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4 months ago

Scott AndersonTo Janice BranhamIt’s a pretty nice route, alright. Now that I’ve found it, I’m thinking I might take a run out there for a late breakfast at Coyote Pause Cafe someday. We stopped there briefly on a break after Gates Pass a year or so ago and it looked worth a longer visit.
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4 months ago