Day 57: Barcelona

October 22, 2023

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From the point of view of walkers, the Sagrada Familia is inconveniently placed away from the Rambla - the main walking street of the city, and link to many of the other must see sites. So today we sort of turned our backs on the Segrada and headed loosely for the water, and back. However this did not mean that we turned our backs on the Gaudi "modernista" style, because this was to be found in many buildings along the way. Some of these buildings were by Gaudi or in the same style. For some reason Dodie found these more pleasing than the Segrada, in fact she loved them. But before you reach our Gaudi flamboyance there are buildings that are more restrained but still totally gorgeous.

The remarkable bit is that in a huge number of blocks, for kilometers really, such buildings are lined up in Barcelona, one after another. What this meant was that as we strolled, down Diagonal Avenue in the first instance, we were looking up continually and chirping "Look at that!". This would be followed by fantasizing about buying each building, and deciding which high up corner apartment we would choose to live in. Our infatuation with a given building would continue for 10 seconds, until we spotted the next one!

Let's start that walk:

If you choose the back corner apartment, you have to look at the Segrada Familia all the time.

The street was very torn up, making walking it a bit of a bug.

This roof top garden could be a good choice!

Casa las Punxes, from 1906, is a Modernista classic, but not a Gaudi. It is a national historic site but privatly owned and containes offices.

Not exactly fruit on a stick, but a similar idea.

Dodie really liked the triangular balconies, and the decorative mosaic.

The nifty buildings just keep coming.

Here is where we turned onto Passeig de Gracia, a street with four Gaudi structures, three famously all in a row.

Lamps like this are common on this street and through the area.

These hanging streamers must be for Christmas. They are nice, but like the darn beautiful trees, obstruct photos of buildings.

Throughout the walk we passed unique doors. I thought I might gather them all into one expo, but instead I will leave them where we found them.

La Pedrera is the name given to this Gaudi building from about 1912. It has a rough but organic style. Dodie liked it, I didn't.

There are of course all sorts of shops along these streets, and the luxury brands are quite noticeable. Not only can we not fathom where people get such amounts of money to throw around, but the products seem genuinely ugly. We are sure that if set out in a garage sale for $5, no one would consider buying one. For example, how about the 3,700 euro bag below? I was saying to Dodie, if the zipper fails and needs replacement, 1000 euros?

As far as we can make out from the plaque, a delegation from Basque country came and met with local officials in this house during the Spanish civil war, to improve relations between the two regions. Too much information for us!

OK here we are at the Block of Discord, being five modernista houses of different appearance in a row. The one on the right is the Gaudi Battlo House. This is a pretty crazy one. (Also a little insane is the 50 euro charge to go inside!)

A good internet view of what the houses are

Here are my not so organized closer up shots.

The second house is Casa Amattler. This houses a chocolate store of that name and also a good cafe.

Going in to the Battlo was ruled out by cost and crowds, but the chocolate shop and cafe in the Amatller were great.

Amatller advent calendar, and chocolate in following photos

We have found that in Girona and now Barcelona there is not only no problem finding good food, but that it is overflowing everywhere. The coffee shop in the Amatller house not only had great and healthful food, but reasonable prices. And great as we thought this was, even more enticing things were soon to be seen down the further streets.

These look fresh and good, with avocado!

As we continue our trek, these medallions are in the sidewalk.

Kids touring the street. But we got bawled out for taking this distant shot from behind.

More towers, and doors, follow as we head for the main square: Catalunya Square

We had been disappointed to realize that since this is a Sunday, all the markets are closed. But in the Square, all 43 local markets were putting on an exhibition, featuring selected vendors from many of them.

We were able to stoll past many vendors, and their stuff looked great!

This man was proud to show us his ham products.

Just two euros to try these great looking olives!

Mushroom fans, check these!

Boniato asado means roasted sweet potatoes? These looked like another kind of persimmon to me. At 2 euros a basket we would have tried them, except for weight.

Looking back at the orange towers house. It is called Casa Fuster. In 1908 it was the most expensive private residence in town. It is Art Nouveau style, more restrained than Gaudi.

Now we set off on the true "Ramblas" , a wide and very long walking street stuffed with people and exciting stores and restaurants.

We had not gone far when we ran into the church of Santa Anna. Do we really want to look at another church? We decided yes, because of the unique statue out front, which is Christ sleeping on a park bench, like a vagrant except for the nail holes in his feet. Vagrants came into our day three times today. First there was Gaudi, who had been sleeping rough in the cathedral and got hit by a tram here in town. Nobody helped him at first because he looked like a vagrant, and he died the next day. Then there was this statue, and one other story that is following soon.

Inside the church a musical group, perhaps from Latin America was between numbers.

Back on the street momentarily, we ran into the most extensive nougat (torrons) outfit we have ever seen. Not only was the store area huge, but the selection was immense. Many products were so far out we questioned whether they were nougat or some other crazy category. But no, they assured us it was all "nougat".

In our travel in Spain this time we have been struck by the quality of hotel rooms, the variety and quality of food, the efficient organisation of the trains, the beauty of the buildings, and the kindness of the climate. So it was unusual that near the Betlem church we observed one guy who was clearly in very rough shape. He was thin and dirty and seemed to have sores on his legs. He was going through a trash can and eating stuff he found. We had food and juice in our pack and tried to give it to him. But he refused, saying he was only interested in "dineros". It was weird because he then went back to browsing on food from the trash.

Actually, he seemed to be a connoisseur of trash food.

We carried on past more and more beautiful buildings, and now seed and plant vendors, reminiscent of the blumen market in Amsterdam. We considered trying to bring some seeds home in our luggage, and then thought about mailing some to ourselves or friends, but in the end let it drop.

We did find one of the (closed) markets, but were able to have a look at some of its surrounding, and still open, restaurants, developing the idea of going for some paella.

More people, more seeds, more fancy buildings!

Barcelona seems to be about broad streets, but the Gotic section does have narrow ones. Here is one off the Rambla, into which a taxi thinks he is going to turn.

He did it! without running down too many people.

All along the Rambla there were restaurants with easy to understand picture menus. We were looking for paella but with chicken rather than sea food. We found one, and took our seats out on the street.

Aside from the chicken and rice, this had broad beans, peas, carrots, eggplant, and green beans!

I have learned that tables in the street may be being run from a quite distant actual restaurant. But I was surprised when I asked about the washrooms to find that we were actually dining at the Oriente Hotel. Here is the lobby.

While sitting out at our table, Dodie thught she spotted one of the green parrots of Barcelona. I craned my neck to look for one, but all I got was this all black pigeon, and I could not really get him looking at me.

More unique facades, as we head down to the water and the Christopher Columbus statue.

Here we are now at the water. Is that Mediterranean blue?

In this poster you can spot the Columbus statue on the right, the harbour, and the mountain - Mont Juic.

There were many fish, but I only "caught" one.

Maybe this guy will have better luck. See them under his beak?

This kid was feeding a lot of his popcorn to the fish. His dad has a strong grip on him!

This looks nice and tropical. I hope it is as pleasant when we return to this coast in February.

A Madonna in the distance. What does baby Jesus have in his hand?

A lot of this is the post office building, I think.

Getting a few narrow treets now...

Ahh, the cathedral ahead.

But first, a building containing the archives of the Crown of Aragon, starting from 1137, with the Archives founded in 1318.

We did not investigate seeing any actual documents, but there were samples on the walls:

Getting tired now, I had hopes of quickly checking the cathedral and calling it quits. But one more museum interceded. The Frederic Mares museum contains sculpture from Roman items through to a lot of middle ages religious ones, to more modern stuff. Dodie developed the clever idea of taking a seat and sending me around! I just did a quick spin on part of the lower floor. Here is what I saw:

On to the cathedral. We learned that (contrary to what we had watched in a Rick Steves video) there is now an admission fee of 11 euros each. Since we are in general churched out, and were now tired too, we gave it a miss. (But I must say, behind us as we faced the cathedral was a great gelato shop. We spent some of our euros on tiramisu and pistachio flavours!)

We made for home, but could not help but run into more and more fascinating stuff. Here below is a music venue, maybe the opera house, the Palau de la Musica Catalana.

Look, a whole tree of pigeons, and it's not yet their bedtime.

Up ahead we spotted what appeared to be the tallest building in the downtown. We eyed it carefully, and decided that though tall and modern it did in fact fit in. That's all we thought about it, until we drew closer and found people lined up, apparently to get in. What's more, the line was the longest we have seen in town.

Aside from this guy, who clearly took a dive from the top, there was no evidence of why the people would line up. So I approached two at random and asked. They said admission today was free. "But what is there to see inside?", I persisted. "Don't know, but it's free". Ok, cheap way to pass a Sunday afternoon, I guess.

And one more door for the road!

Today's ride: 14 km (9 miles)
Total: 2,866 km (1,780 miles)

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Carolyn van HoeveHi Steve & Dodie - enjoying following along on your bike tour! We've recently completed Frankfurt to Paris and have found a great storage solution for our bikes near Paris. I know there was a discussion at the beginning of your tour about stashing bikes and that you're planning to leave them in Valencia this time, but Paris could be a good option for the future. I have posted some info in the forum!
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6 months ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Carolyn van HoeveThanks for the information, Carolyn. We will make a note of it and may be able to incorporate it as a solution for the future. Flights to and from Paris to our home are frequent and often direct, which is a big plus. We love Paris and would enjoy using it as a base for travel.
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6 months ago

Janice BranhamThanks for the house tour. I enjoyed seeing some of what we walked by last week, and lots more that we didn't see. You must have walked many miles.
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6 months ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Janice BranhamIt was a blast, but now Dodie has developed plantar fasciitis in her left foot, and we still have three days of looking around in Valencia. Fortunately, we brought Ibuprofen, the cyclists best friend.
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6 months ago

Janice BranhamOoh, plantar fasciitis is no fun. It's one of the reasons I gave up running years ago. And - you're in Valencia! We're ferrying there tomorrow. How long will you be there?
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6 months ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Janice BranhamSadly, we only arrive in Valencia on November 2. I think you are gone by then?
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6 months ago

Janice BranhamTo Steve Miller/GrampiesAh, I misunderstood. Yes, we leave Valencia for Granada Oct 27th. Bummer. Another time I hope!
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6 months ago