In Ipswitch: the Felixstowe Ferry

June 24, 2022

The day begins with Rachael’s ENT appointment, a fifteen minute walk from our hotel. The plan is that she’ll walk over on her own and then call me afterwards so we can discuss what to do with our day once she’s gotten a diagnosis and sees how she feels. She anticipates being uncomfortable after having someone jab probes up her nose to see what’s going on up there.

When the call arrives, she has what I view as good news: she has a mild case of sinusitis, and is on an antibiotic regimen for the next five days. Great - a convincing diagnosis, readily treatable. And she’s in no pain, because no unpleasant probes were required. In fact, she’s surprised and highly impressed by the visit. One surprise is that it’s a virtual visit, a video consultation with an ENT specialist working remotely. The other surprise is that her session is in a room filled with remotely monitored instruments, and she just follows instructions on which instrument to use next. Here’s her description of the experience.

The ENT visit turned out to be a visit via computer with a twist. You are in a special room that is set up with equipment for checking heart rate and other vitals and a special tool like what they use to look inside your nose but it's a high power camera that when placed close to one nostril allows the doctor to see the inside of both nostrils. It was amazing. She determined that I have a sinus infection and prescribed a 5 day course of penicillin that I was able to fill at the pharmacy. Hopefully it will take care of the problem.

So she feels fine, but especially given it’s quite windy today she elects for a walk. She doesn’t leave until early afternoon, after I’ve already left for a ride - but since we’re on Rachael anyway, let’s see what she brought back from her walk along the south side of the Orwell River, the bay that opens up at Ipswitch and reaches the sea in about ten miles at Harwich, an important port on the North Sea.

Looking across the mudflats along the Orwell River. Like our walk in Maldon, the tide’s out at the moment.

The impressive Orwell Bridge carries the A14 across the river a few miles south of Ipswitch. The Wikipedia article on the bridge makes interesting reading. Among other things it has a table of times when the bridge is closed for safety reasons due to high winds, most recently on February 22nd for 12 hours during Storm Eunice. The article notes that “ When the bridge is closed in both directions for more than a short period of time, normally as a safety precaution due to high winds, most of Ipswich's roads are brought to a near-standstill by diverted traffic.”

A minor tributary flowing into the Orwell. The River Stour also flows in, but right at the sea where the two come together. This is the same River Stour we crossed on yesterday’s ride, but a different River Stour than flows through Canterbury. There are five Stours in the UK. We should start a quest to see all five.

As usual when I’m setting my own clock, I’m late getting mobilized and don’t leave the room until almost eleven. When I hit the sidewalk I look up the street and see Rachael walking my way, finally returning after her appointment and a trip to the grocery store. I’d include a photo of her walking my way, but we saw one of those just a few days ago and she doesn’t care for this one too much.

I’ve mapped out a loop ride to the coast for myself, but two alternatives are possible. The whole loop is 42 miles (which I planned thinking it might tempt Rachael to join me); or it might just be 32. There’s a small foot ferry at Felixstowe across the mouth of the Deben that I’d have to cross, but if I don’t take it across I’ll just double back.

Once again the weather is fine for cycling, if a bit windy.

The Ipswitch waterfront is along small protected waterway, Neptune Marina, formed by a small island at a bend in the Orwell.

Ipswitch is a fairly large place (population 180,000) and it takes about four miles until I break free of it and find myself biking through beautiful farmlands again, similar to what we rode through arriving here yesterday. It’s flat, seemingly rich soil and a bit of everything is grown. As I near the coast my route passes through another protected area, the Suffolk Coast and Heaths AONB. I should start keeping a list of these also - this is the fourth or fifth we’ve seen so far.

A view to the port at Harwich at the mouth of the Orwell.

Blowing’ in the wind. It must be around 15 mph today.

It’s about 12:30 when I reach the Deben River and the ferry crossing. The ferry’s in port but with no sign of life. It’s little more than a dinghy, and service is on demand. There’s a phone number I could call, and folks by the pier think he’s at lunch in the diner overlooking the bay and think he’ll come out if he sees someone standing here. I loiter for several minutes looking at the views and back at the diner as encouragement in case he’s keeping an eye out, but it’s a no show. I decide it isn’t worth it to call him up and interrupt his meal for a measly four pound fare and just turn back the way I came.

The quaint Felixstowe Ferry to Bawdsey (the town on the opposite bank). Runs April through September, 10 AM to 5PM. Passengers with bike are 4£ one way, 6£ RT.

Looking across the mouth of the Deben. So many boats!

While waiting for the ferry operator I was very excited to look up and see a puffin on the buoy out in the water. I walked out to the end of the pier to get a closer look, feeling really lucky that it was so patient. I see now though that it’s always patient - that bolt sticking out it’s tail feathers is a dead giveaway.

So back it is, which is fine with me as it’s a beautiful ride in both directions. On the way back I add in a few detours though since I’ve got the time.

Since Rachael’s not here to object I decide to experiment a bit and take a rough alternate route that from the map at least looks like it might or might not connect up at the other end. Worst case I’ll be walking part of it and have to backtrack, but I’m feeling bold.

A timeless subject: some cows, some crows, a windmill.

Seven miles from town I come to The Ship, an appealing pub by Nacton that caught my eye on the way out that’s been in the back of my mind and factored into my decision to turn back at the Felixstowe ferry. I haven’t packed a lunch with me thinking I’d just find something along the way, and this seems perfect.

The ploughman’s lunch, because man cannot live by beer alone.

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Ride stats today: 32 miles, 1,200’; for the tour: 311 miles, 13,900’

Today's ride: 32 miles (51 km)
Total: 311 miles (501 km)

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