Tudela

September 29, 2023

Let’s begin today’s post with the the news from Taiwan, a gripping, almost mythic tale of a battle to the death between a snake and an eagle sent to us by our friend Graham, who knows I like snakes and eagles (and also mail slots). Don’t fail to watch the video!

Unfortunately I didn’t see the bird myself, so I can’t claim it as my two hundredth bird for the year. Maybe I’ll still get lucky though and some Spanish snake will truss up an Imperial eagle for my viewing pleasure.

With a longer than usual ride ahead and another hot day in store we get an early start again and miraculously make it out the door before nine on our ride south to Tudela. Olite has been a rewarding stop, but after three days we’re ready to move on.

Heading south, we pass through the gap of the first small climb on today’s ride.

The way I’ve mapped it out, it’s almost forty miles to Tudela - an easy, largely flat ride that generally follows the Ebro most of the way. After two fairly easy climbs at the start, it’s downhill or flat most of the rest of the day. An easy ride, if not a particularly enjoyable one as at least half of it was on arterial roads that carried more traffic than we’ve been seeing so far, including a significant number of large trucks. Knowing what I do now, if we rode this stage again I’d stick on the route I’d originally planned that stays on the east side of the river at the expense of a few more hills and some unpaved miles.

Because it wasn’t the most pleasant of days I’ll stick to letting the photos do the talking and save my breath for hopefully more interesting days to come. There were some attractive sights along the way - especially the collection of brilliant murals in Villafranca - but mostly we just just rode, trying to make good time, beat the heat, and avoid getting squished by trucks.

Actually, it was a very pretty ride most of the way.

Converging on the Ebro. The cliffs to the right line it’s western bank.

This and the following photos were probably my favorites from the day.

The view across the Ebro to Milagro, from Villafranca.

Arguedas, a gateway village into the Bardenas Reales.

We passed several of these flooded flats, making me wonder if they grow rice here. I thought there might be some interesting birdlife too, but they’re only egrets. We’ve seen egrets aplenty this year.

An enticing window into the Bardenas Reales reminds me that I hope to make it back out here tomorrow.

Video sound track: Life is a Highway, by Tom Cochrane

We’ve done really well at staying on task, and it’s just turning one when we cross the Ebro and enter Tudela, our home for the next two nights. We head straight to the central plaza, pick out a table in the shade, and enjoy the Menu del Dia before moving on to our hotel on just the other side of the plaza. It’s quite hot by now, and we’re happy to just be able to settle into our room to wait out the hottest hours of the day. Later, not long before sunset, we’ll go out again so we can cool off with some ice cream; and then I continue on alone for a half-hearted exploration of the town that quickly ends in front of a frosted glass that looks more inviting in this heat. We’ll still be here tomorrow. I can look around then.

Looking across the Ebro as we enter Tudela. Looks like a great way to spend a hot afternoon.

In Tudela, looking across the colorful Plaza de Los Fueros, the heart of the city.

Appreciating the Plaza de Los Fueros from a privileged position.

Heart

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Ride stats today: 38 miles, 800’; for the tour: 746 miles, 21,600’

Today's ride: 38 miles (61 km)
Total: 736 miles (1,184 km)

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Janice BranhamSo often it seems we have to choose between gravel and traffic. When we're riding gravel, I'm thinking Welp, at least there aren't any cars. Then on the road I try to appreciate the pavement while the cars whiz by.
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