Olite

September 26, 2023

Today’s ride

We get down to the dining hall early, right at 7. But we’re too late already. Breakfast was served starting at 6:30, and most of the pastries are gone already - consumed on the spot or pocketed by the horde of peregrinos getting an early jump on the long stage to Estella on a day that figures to be a warm one.

We want to get an early start too, but somehow it’s still nearly ten when we finally haul our loads down to the street. This seems to be our norm, no matter how well-intentioned we are about setting off sooner.

Easy enough to find the bike room at our hotel.

The ride begins with about a mile detour to the west and back, so Rachael can get a look at the bridge she didn’t get out for last night and so I can see it in the morning sun instead of the shadows of dusk. I’m happy to see it but sorry I didn’t have the camera ready for the shot I wish I’d captured when a hundred or more pigeons exploded like a white firework into the air from one of its pillars.

I was pleased that Rachael wanted to go check out the bridge this morning so I could see it again in the sunlight.

A mural I missed in Puente Le Reina last night.

And then we turn eastward again, passing our hotel and continuing on. Today’s script is like yesterday’s, in that we’re scrapping the pre-planned more direct route south to Olite in favor of a longer one that executes a horseshoe to the east first before doubling back. It’s too fine a day again for just a 19 mile ride, and besides that we don’t really want a route that backtrack’s yesterday’s for the first ten miles.

I’ve picked a good route, as the road is very quiet for the first ten miles as we bike eastward. We’re roughly paralleling the French Way still, and from time to time we see walkers on the trail off to our left going the other direction. As we move east there’s gradually more contour on the horizon ahead, reminding us that we really aren’t that far from the Pyrenees.

The other thing that’s happening this morning though is that we’re biking straight into the morning sun, and gradually but steadily climbing. By the time we top out it’s feeling warm and Rachael’s reminding me that we really do need to get an earlier start on days like this. Tomorrow, for sure.

There’s more than one way to tackle the Way.

I’m surprised by how green the countryside still is here.

This fairly ghastly scar is the UNCONA limestone quarry. I think it’s abandoned and under an environmental assessment for restoration, which looks like a good idea.

Conditions improve considerably though when we round the horn and turn southwest. After biking along the top of the ridge through a forest of slowly spinning wind turbines for a mile or two, we’re cooled off by a pleasant five mile descent. Then there’s another ridge to climb before we drop to Tafalla and rattle our way down its cobblestone streets rather than staying on the paved highway like sensible folks would do, and in another couple of miles we arrive at Olite. It’s just turning 1:30, and we’re lucky to score the last free outdoor table at the restaurant/hotel where we pick up the key to our nearby apartment.

Dropping from the high point of the day, which we’re happy about. It’s been hot climbing into the face of the sun for the last several miles.

Añorbe, with the hermitage of San Martin crowning the hill behind. This is the same structure we saw from the other side a few frames back.

The top of the ridge is a forest of wind generators.

After generally climbing for the first ten miles we enjoy a gradual five mile descent.

Artajona, with many of the towers from its former walls still standing.

Looking back at Artajona, a town that looks more enticing from a distance.

We’ve moved out of the wine belt but there are still a few vineyards here and there.

Dropping through lonely Tafalla, a place that didn’t tempt us to linger.

Lunchtime on the plaza in romantic Olite.

Video sound track: Dragonfly, by Yasmin Williams

The standard lunchtime fare: an appetizer, a main, dessert, bread, water, and a bottle of wine for two (half of which gets left for the cooks). An espresso chaser is extra.

Olite

Olite is another of those destinations that’s been on my list for years. I considered including it on the ride from Bilbao to Sete six years ago, and I think I was thinking about it for our first pass at the Pyrenees three years earlier. It’s been so long now that I forget now what even brought it to my attention - maybe it was an entry in the Michelin Green Guide to Spain I used to consult.

As we’re approaching it though, biking the last few miles from Tafalla to here, I’m having my doubts and wondering if I’ve made a mistake placing us here for three nights. It’s flat and pretty uninteresting all around, and we’re still on a busy highway pulling away from the outskirts of dusty Tafalla when we’re only a mile from the place. And the town only has a population of 4,000’, barely a village.

It doesn’t take long though to see that I’ve made the right call. Olite is an exceptional place, which is obvious when you get close enough to see the turrets pointing skyward like. Cluster of rockets and bike through the gate into the small pedestrianized core. And when I go out for a brief look around before sundown I’m stunned and brought to a standstill when I come to the glorious, recently restored portal of Santa Maria La Real Church.

Olite is a destination of note thanks to Charles III, King of Navarre, who commissioned the construction of a fanciful, Cinderella-like castle in the 14th century for use as his pleasure palace. We’ll be here for three nights, so I’ll just drop in a few photos at the end of each of our posts from here. Most of tonight’s are from the magnificent church portal, beautifully restored just eight years ago.

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Ride stats today: 30 miles, 1,700’; for the tour: 646 miles, 18,100’

Today's ride: 30 miles (48 km)
Total: 636 miles (1,024 km)

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Carolyn van HoeveHi Scott & Rachael! So glad your health is good and the weather playing ball! Spain is looking fabulous.
We’ve had a fantastic tour starting in Frankfurt. Currently in Arras, heading to Peronne, Amiens & Beauvais, ending close to Paris. Unbelievably lucky with the weather too. Only one day of light rain and other than that rain gear has remained stashed away. Perfect riding conditions. September really seems to be the best month to tour.
Unfortunately one month really isn’t long enough. Hopefully longer next year.
Wishing you many more good weather days and feeling good. I’ll be following!
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