September 15, 2023
Murgia
The day begins much like yesterday’s did, with another self-serve one jammer breakfast in our hotel room. After that we turn to the final breakout, carefully separating out what’s being shipped ahead to Valencia with the suitcases and what’s going on the road with us. As part of this, Rachael alertly remembers to pull the Tile aside to pack in one of the suitcases so we can track them in case they get lost in shipment.
At 9:30 we’re out on the sidewalk, rolling our suitcases the two blocks to the Mail Boxes, Inc storefront that we’ll turn them over to. It’s the same one we brought them to four years ago on the ride from Bilbao to Sete. It’s four years almost to the day, actually - we shipped them on September 14th then, on an unpromising morning that was pouring down rain.
Just as last time, shipment is a snap. We roll in our naked suitcases and the agent lifts them up on the scales, weighs and measure them, and breaks out the paperwork. 46 euros to have them delivered to Valencia with so little effort on our part feels like a real bargain.
Back at the room again, we start packing up our panniers to get ready for departure, and Rachael observes with disappointment that I failed to pack the Tile into one of the suitcases so it’s not going to help us with tracking them after all.
By 10:30 we’re on the sidewalk with the bikes, ready to roll. So here we are again, stripped down to the bare essentials: the two bikes, whatever we’ve managed to cram into our pair of panniers, and each other. The simple life. We’re both ready.
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This year’s tour begins with a short initial stage - a one mile bike upriver to the train station, where we’ll catch the Cercanías Bilbao (the city’s commuter rail network) to Orduña, the last stop on the C Line that climbs south into the interior.
Before we go though, it’s time to finally say a few words about this season’s tour and how it will be different than most others we’ve taken for the last five years. First of all, it’s short. At just over six weeks, it’s the shortest overseas tour we’ve taken since we retired and sold our home.
Second, it’s easy - or as easy as you can really make a self-sufficient bike tour that traverses Spain roughly north to south. The travel days are relatively few and the average distance and elevation quite low. In six weeks we’re only staying in 24 towns and cities - we have more layover days than moving ones. We’ll cover barely 600 miles, not counting the many day rides we hope to include, and the average travel day works out to roughly 25 miles with only 1,300’ of elevation gain.
Easy! It’s not quite like hanging out in the Po Basin for the next six weeks, but it’s as close to it as I could map out. It’s certainly not like what most folks imagine biking across Spain might be like. It’s also not at all like the initial vision for this tour when we bought our tickets for Bilbao. Then, the intent was a ‘normal’ 13 week tour that maximized our allowed time in the Schengen zone. We intended a tour that ended in either Valencia or Malaga, and included the coastal stretch between those two cities and a couple of weeks in Mallorca.
What changed this of course was my health issues - my worsening arrhythmia, and my scheduled ablation surgery for soon after we return to Portland. It gradually became clear over the last half year that I really can’t challenge my system too much without triggering an episode, so we just kept simplifying the plan to make it something that seemed plausible. And then, late in the game I was offered an earlier surgery date than I’d expected so we shortened the tour even further.
All of which is background for explaining today’s ride - 13 miles, beginning with this train ride to Orduña. The train ride is because there’s a considerable climb traveling south from Bilbao - we know, because we did it four years ago - and it felt prudent to take the commuter rail as long as it’s available. And it’s such a short ride because the natural one, to Vitoria, has more climbing than I think I need to be doing in one shot so we’re breaking it in the middle in Murgia.
As it is, I’m feeling some trepidation starting out this morning because there’s a significant climb soon after leaving Murgia, an unavoidable one that’s possibly the most challenging one of the whole tour. It feels like a test. If this works, the tour is probably on as planned. If not, there are always buses when you need one.
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Okay, enough groundwork. The Cercanías are a great option for getting into and out of Spain’s major cities - it’s how we left Barcelona last spring. They’re cheap, they run often, and they take bikes as roll-on. Today’s ride cost us 3.35€ each. We caught the one leaving at 11:47, wanting to get an early start on our short ride because thunderstorms are in the forecast beginning mid-afternoon sometime, possibly severe ones. We really want to be off the road before then.
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Twenty one stops later we’re getting off at the end of the line in Orduña and soon biking east toward Murgia. After less than a mile of warmup we come to the start of the climb that’s been in the back of my mind for a while now - a fairly steady 1,200’ ascent in roughly three and a half miles that stays in the 6-9% range the whole way. Conditions for the climb are fortunately quite good - overcast but dry, a light breeze, not too warm.
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And so how does it go? It goes fine. I take it slowly, cycling easily in my lowest two gears most of the way and stopping for breaks to admire the increasingly fine views once or twice. Soon enough the summit comes into view, and I mentally give a big sigh of relief. Tour’s on!
Rachael’s been taking her time too. There’s no rush since she has to wait for me anyway; and she’s got her own persistent and frustrating breathing issues that never seem to go away holding her back. We’re quite a pair right now, actually.
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And really, that’s the ride. It’s only 13 miles after all, and the remainder consists of a few low rollers and one unexpected short but steep stretch that spikes to 12% and catches us by surprise. Other than that the main concern is the weather, as the sky is darkening ahead and a few sprinkles start falling not long past the summit. They hold off though, and by 2:30 we’re holed up in our room deciding what to do until our hotel’s restaurant starts serving dinner at 8:30.
My plan is to take a look around town - which doesn’t take long because there’s so little town here - and then grab a beer from the bar and hold down an outside table relaxing in the refreshing afternoon until a sudden cloudburst quickly pushes me and everyone else inside.
Rachael walks around town herself, finds an attractive bakery, and calls me up to recite the list of treats available to see if anything appeals. An apple tart sounds perfect, so she says she’ll bring one by when she gets back; but ten minutes later she calls to say she’s been delayed. The same cloudburst has caught her in it too and she’s holed up in the nearest shelter until it passes.
In the evening we enjoy a nice meal in our hotel, a three course fixed price menu: for 19€ each we get a starter, main, dessert, bread and water, and a bottle of red wine to share.
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7 months ago
Ride stats today: 13 Miles, 1,700’; for the tour: 35 miles, 1,900’
Today's ride: 13 miles (21 km)
Total: 359 miles (578 km)
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| Comment on this entry | Comment | 10 |
7 months ago
7 months ago
Seriously, I hope it’s a wonderful tour and am looking forward to following along.
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