In Malanquilla

October 3, 2023

If the ride into Malanquilla was the best ride of the tour so far, our afternoon walk from here was the best walk as well. Not that I’ve taken many walks, but that’s beside the point - it was spectacular.

After the usual afternoon siesta, plans for a late-afternoon walk settled quickly when we looked out our window at Malanquilla’s iconic windmill, about a quarter mile way at the near edge of a broad, open plateau. We decided to start with walking to the windmill and then just look around for whatever paths continued on from there. I started first, and walked back through the center of the village on the way to the windmill. From there I looked back at the town and saw Rachael walking down from it, and waited by the mill until she arrived to join me.

Malanquilla’s church and central plaza. The restaurant is in the building to the left.

After only a few blocks I’m already at the edge of town. No suburban neighborhoods to wade through before you get to the open countryside.

Malanquilla, as viewed from the window. It’s pretty easy to spot our hotel.

After she arrives we walk away from the town together, following a ‘path’ across the open, rocky plateau. We know it’s a path because there’s a signpost at its start and then a small stone cairn every fifty yards or so, but otherwise there’s not much to distinguish it. We’re on the edge of a vast, open, unspoiled space, and all alone. The only sound we hear is the tinkling of goat or sheep bells from somewhere back toward the village.

The cairns are comforting, but with the windmill and our colorful hotel as landmarks in the distance we can hardly get lost. Eventually the cairn path peters out and Rachael decides to turn back to explore in a different direction, but I continue on further finding my own way through the stones and thistles until eventually I bend my way back to the windmill and then the hotel. I’ve been out for about two hours, and other than Rachael I haven’t seen another soul.

It’s nearing sundown when I return to the hotel. I check the Garmin and see that Rachael’s maybe a half mile away still but heading my way, so I climb up to the observation deck to watch the sunset behind the mill while I wait for her to return. An incredible, unique day all the way around.

The view east and south of town. This late in the day especially, the colors are exceptional.

The view to the north. It really does feel like we’re on the edge of the world here.

A row of inconspicuous cairns show the way.

It’s such a fine time of day to be out. The fields are radient.

I’m not sure if it’s the wagon that’s for sale, or the small hermitage next to it, or if they’re a package deal. I’m definitely tempted though. I’d like to have my own hermitage.

The colors intensify as the sun nears the horizon behind me.

In the foreground is the recently restored Nevera of Malanquilla. Built in the 16th or 17th century, it was an ice house that was filled with snow and ice in the winter for use as a refrigeration source in the warmer months, for Malanquilla as well as neighboring communities.

Interesting background on the ice house, if you can translate it.

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Janice BranhamWhat a gorgeous place and a great time of day to experience it. This afternoon siesta groove you've gotten into is working out well.
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7 months ago

Rachael AndersonTo Janice BranhamIt works well if you don’t sleep too long! The next day I took a nap Scott had to wake me up. I’m taking a decongestant because I’ve had a cough but am doing better now!
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7 months ago