In Almeria: Day 3

March 27, 2024

Another day that starts out with the same general plan in mind: a walk for Rachael because it’s much too windy for her to want to ride, and a ride for me because my knees are much to bad for me to accompany her. Actually, the knees are a real concern. The last steroid shot has been a disappointment, without providing much real relief. I’m starting to think that a knee replacement might be needed sooner, rather than the later we’ve been hoping for.

And Rachael has her own health concerns, waking up with a sore throat that seems to have sprung up from nowhere in the middle of the night. She’s worried about it - we both are - but she decides to go ahead with the walk she has planned and see how she feels afterwards. She nearly always feels better after a walk, so we’re hopeful.

I’ve biked to the east, when we cycles into town from San Jose three days ago. Yesterday I biked west along the coast. South is out because of that annoying large body of water between us and Africa, as is the northwest because of thosesteep, roadless Sierra Nevada hills that begin right on the edge of the city. That leaves north up the Andarax valley as unexplored territory, so I set out on a 38 mile out and back route I’ve mapped out for myself to Gador and a bit beyond.

The weather is beautiful this morning, if all you want to do is look at it. The sky is blue, visibility is good, but even this early in the morning it’s already quite windy. By midafternoon the winds are supposed to grow quite fierce, with gusts as high as 50 mph threatened. For now though it’s my friend as I bike east along the waterfront and then north up the Andarax past the park where I saw those hoopoes two days ago. There are no hoopoes out this morning, but I do stop for another sighting of a colorful greenfinch, a bird I’m discovering is quite common here.

On a day with few birds about this greenfinch will have to carry the honors as bird of the day.

I continue north past the park, the fairgrounds and the stadium, and then cross the river on a minor road just north of the main highway east out of town. It’s a busy road, but as soon as I’ve crossed the bridge I turn off onto an empty rural lane and head north again. It’s not the most appealing road - dusty, and lined with tattered plastic greenhouses - but it’s quiet and going my way so I’m fine with it as far as it goes.

Which isn’t far, unfortunately. After a couple of miles it ends at a busy, narrow, shoulderless two lane highway. It looks like I’ve picked the wrong route for myself so I turn south again with the idea that I’ll just improvise. My improvisations inevitably lead me east, the only option if I don’t want to just head back to town and call it a morning.

I eventually end up on the same road we biked in on three days ago, happily sailing along with the wind at my back and suppressing the thought of what it will be like when I finally turn around. Which I do, not long past the airport, when I come to a turnoff to a track down to the waterfront. the map shows a coastal trail here, so I don’t mind a few miles of gravel I can enjoy a more scenic, quieter ride west than I’ll experience back on the road. And it shouldn’t slow me down much, because in this wind I won’t be moving fast anyway. Maybe I’ll even get some relief from the wind, sheltered by the coastal shrubbery.

I soon reach the beach and enjoy some impressive sea views - east to Cabo de Gato, and west back toward town.

The view east to the natural park. Look at the silvery sheen on that roiling sea though!

Unfortunately the coastal trail is a fiction, barely even walkable. There’s no choice but to backtrack to the road.

That sandy trough to the right is the ‘trail’ west. It’s too deep and sandy even to walk, much less bike through.

After fighting the wind for control of the bike for about a half mile I come to another turnoff and decide to give it a try. This one seems more viable at first, and I take heart when I see that I’m on the Eurovelo. When has the EV ever led me astray?

Great! I’m obviously on the right path now.

Well. Too narrow (and scratchy!) to bike, so I walk a bit.

I like getting a look at the seaward face of this tower anyway.

After about a half mile of that nonsense I find myself back on the road again; and a tough half mile later I gratefully pull off for a third time when I come to Costacabana, the easternmost suburb of the city. The remaining miles to town would be a pretty pleasant ride except for the wind, which is steadily amplifying. Open and exposed as I am, it’s a challenge to keep my pace much above 5 mph.

Less peaceful than it looks. I think there’s a reason so few folks are out in such a pretty day.

Every so often I take a break from fighting the wind to focus on the wild, frothy sea. That’s a challenge too though, just trying to hold the camera steady.

Even behind this four foot seawall I still get wet occasionally as waves crash above it. You can see that the path ahead is wet from the spray.

I knew I was on an EV route, but I’m surprised to see I’m on a Camino too - and surprised it’s going east long the coast. Isn’t Santiago up north?

It’s a minor route I haven’t heard of before. This one follows the coast east - around the cape, past San Jose, past Agua Amarga, and finally turning north at Mojácar. Eventually it will merge with the French Way far in the north. Arduous!

I’m thinking of those hardy peregrenistas as I bike west. Compared to their challenge I’ve got little to complain about, but that doesn’t stop me. It’s hard! Every now and then an especially strong blast in the face will bring me to a full stop, and then it’s hard to get under way again. By the time I finally come to my turn and head north toward the hotel the left side of my face is feeling abraded from the sand hitting against it blowing up from the beach.

It looks like such a calm scene, but those palm fronds give a hint.

I was pleased this shot came out so well. It was a real challenge to hold the camera steady for it.

I’m doing better than this person anyway. At least I’m rolling, if slowly and erratically.

A last look before leaving the shore. Aguadulce is just visible to the west of the headland.

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Rachael’s throat is still quite sore when she starts her walk, so she decides to stop in at a pharmacist. She’s sold a pack of medicated lozenges that she can take up to five times a day, starts sucking on one as she walks, and voila! It’s not long until her symptoms are much improved.

As planned, she walks on a trail west of the hike she did yesterday with views looking back on her walk yesterday. It’s a steady climb for six miles, and then she heads back. Scenic again and she’s happy to have gotten such a walk in after being uncertain whether she’d be having one at all, but she didn’t take many photos this time because she had in mind that she’d take a video on the way down.

The video didn’t happen though, because when she turns around and heads down she walking into the wind now; and it’s strong enough that she has to pay attention to her footing so she doesn’t get blown off the trail.

So, a challenging day for both of us. We have no complaints though, when we look around at weather everywhere else in Spain. Were holed up in what’s likely the best spot in the country this week. As it turns out, being on the edge of Europe’s only hot climate desert is a pretty good choice in this week’s conditions.

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We arrive back at the hotel within five minutes of each other. There’s barely time for me to change and clean up before heading out for our 2:15 lunch reservation. There’s just time for us to stop in on the way at the restaurant we were turned away from yesterday and book ourselves a meal for there tomorrow.

Today’s restaurant, my choice this time, is a pretty upscale modern place up on the third floor of a commercial building. It’s a good thing we made a reservation because the indoor seating area is small, all tables are soon filled, and it’s no day to dine inside. We share a stuffed zucchini starter, follow it with fish and fowl mains, and then brave the winds again to stop off at an artisan gelato place around the corner for dessert.

That’s it for the day’s outing though. The ferocious winds look like they’ll continue into the early evening so we’re happy to just shelter in our room, knowing that there are still the Maundy Thursday and Good Friday processions to look forward to.

And the duck. I like birds, in case you hadn’t noticed.

Today's ride: 25 miles (40 km)
Total: 461 miles (742 km)

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Steve Miller/GrampiesHarrowing tale. We hate high winds!
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1 month ago

Gregory GarceauThank goodness for medicated lozenges. Thank badness for having a sore throat in the first place. Thank goodness for birds as pretty as green finches. Thank badness for those winds. Thank goodness for those great pictures of silvery waves. Thank badness for some of those nearly unrideable Eurovelo routes. Thank goodness for that deserty, rocky, view-blockerless landscape. Thank badness for getting sandblasted in the face. Thank goodness for such delicious looking meals of fish and duck.

And Happy Belated Birthday, Rocky. Birthdays seem to be especially special while on a bike tour.
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1 month ago

Anne MathersYowzer, that wind is no fun when it's blasting you in the face and bringing you to a standstill. Or threatening to blow you off a trail! Good thing you are holed up in a gorgeous place like Almeria and finding delicious food while it continues to gale. Happy Easter to you both🐰🐣
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1 month ago

Rachael AndersonTo Anne MathersIt sure was a lot better than having to bike in wind and rain carrying a full load! I’m very glad we decided to stay here through Easter. I love the apartment we are staying in now and we have restaurants booked for today and tomorrow!
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1 month ago

Rachael AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesIt’s definitely easier than what you’re doing since we have the option to go out and we’re not carrying our bags!
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1 month ago

Rachael AndersonTo Gregory GarceauThanks!
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1 month ago