Day 27: Faro to Tavira - Grampies Iberian Inquisition Spring 2023 - CycleBlaze

March 28, 2023

Day 27: Faro to Tavira

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 Faro had come up with a Portuguese experience that we felt had been somewhat lacking since Porto: A cathedral, old buildings, walking streets, and a touch of the past culture. We were fortunate to again get a nice taste of Portugal today, in the town of Olhao.

Even before reaching Olhao, we had a great time with natural things, starting with a mare and colt by the roadside.

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It was Dodie who first spotted the salt flats, and with them our favourites: flamingoes!

Salt flats
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A small mountain of salt. I tasted it - salty!
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Lots of Flamingoes were in the area.
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They were not very pink as yet.
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A roadside panel showed which other birds are in the area.
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I would call that the stilt? I need help to sort the ones below out!
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Bill ShaneyfeltRed legs, straight black beak, black wings... Yup, black winged stilt... apparently, they often also have a black cap!

https://ebird.org/species/bkwsti
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1 year ago
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Bill ShaneyfeltSome kind of sandpiper
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1 year ago
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Just for the record, I must say that generally cycling here as in all parts of Portugal we have been in so far, and whether in more rural or more developed areas, the roadside plants have been amazing. It's flowers and trees and grasses and fruits, and birds, in a changing pattern, everywhere!

Here, just for fun is something we have not seen in other parts - datura, in gardens. They are really spectacular.

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Bill ShaneyfeltClosely related, and still toxic angel trumpets.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brugmansia
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And look, even a Magpie decided to hold still for a second.

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Olhao's main feature is  a malecon featuring shops and restaurants and condos. The best of this is a large market building, which is in two parts - one with seafood and one with vegetables and meat. As usual this all wowed us, especially all the squiggly sea creatures. It was not just the creatures, but the fact that the building was right by the sea, and that this was an authentic market, in PORTUGAL! There were some other cues to authenticity here. For example, the little vans that all the workers use. In the old days, in France especially, I remember the goofy little Citroen trucks that all tradesmen had. Now it's these white vans. And then there is the restaurant selling exactly what you will find in the market. And the clients out on the tables - totally unhurried, as were the wait staff.

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That guy is looking at me!
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From the restaurant.
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Unhurried, everybody.
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Fish boat by the restaurant.
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It is not easy to get chicken to be yellow like this. I tried and failed at home. You have to feed insane amounts of corn.
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The Portuguese seem to arrange their stuff cornucopia style. I like that.
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On docks further down, you see a lot of nets stacked up.
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And a seafood based industrial area.
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We took a few gambles, following EV 1, and did come up with sand, but in this case with interesting sand dwelling crabs to look at.

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Bill ShaneyfeltOne big claw and one small claw leads me to think maybe fiddler crab.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiddler_crab
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Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Bill ShaneyfeltWe noticed the single large claw also.
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Somewhere along the line there was this old style church. But churches are not the same kind of major icon in every town, as in France.
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Wow, an EV1 sign! In this case, we went right. It's gravel either way, eh!
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Just as when you show up at an unfamiliar hotel, it takes some uncomfortable minutes to figure out the layout. The same is true of towns. The easiest towns have a central square with a church, city hall opposite, and bakery, gelato, and bank usually on the square as well.  But without a central church, one can be at loose ends in Portugal.

Tavira has the Rio Gilao running though. We mistakenly high tailed it to the east side - nope that's how we'll leave tomorrow.

Hey, come back!
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Yes, this rather shows the heart of the town.
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I caught the cold that Dodie is now over, and was really dragging. Every time we stopped, I would try to take a nap on my handlebars. We have been COVID testing, it's not that. When we got to our room, the now chipper Dodie wanted us to go for a walk in the town.  I put the camera in her hand and shooed her out the door - because this place has a bath tub!

Here is what Dodie saw out there:

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At the Misericordia Church (one with a lot of glitzy gold) Dodie could not get in because of a Fado concert about to start!
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Looking toward our hotel, the Mares Residencial
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Today's ride: 41 km (25 miles)
Total: 1,028 km (638 miles)

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