Overnight, the temperature seems to have jumped fifteen degrees. The high today is near 80, the first time since we arrived that it has seemed very warm. Just in time for us to leave the flattish southwest corner of the island. For the rest of the tour we will be cycling predominantly through through the hilly/mountainous interior. The next three weeks are apt to be relentlessly hilly, hot, and hard.
We began the day by lugging our bikes and gear up the long staircase to the street, and then spent a few minutes circling back through town looking at it again in the morning sun. Sciacca is really quite a pretty spot, with its three layers separated by capillary alleys or staircases. Navigation by bicycle is a bit of a challenge though as soon as you stray off the main thoroughfare.
The first 20 miles of the day's ride, to the hilltop town of Ribera, were another delightful ramble along a carfree, malformed, flower-lined minor road. We just keep finding these - the interior of Sicily has a wonderful network of ideal cycling roads. Today's ride is quite contoured though - up, down; up, down; and hot. By the time we arrive at Ribera and stop for sandwiches and a small reservoir of cold water, I'm well ready for a break from the sun.
The rest of the day's ride was on busier roads, and a bit less interesting. We passed by our B&B at about 5, but spent the next half hour trying to find it. We asked two sets of locals, who weren't sure but pointed in opposite directions. Finally we stopped for help at a different B&B - they didn't know either but gave ours a call - we were only about 100 yards away.
The highlight for the day, and one of the best of the trip so far, was our walk to the nearby Turkish Steps - the reason we were staying in this tiny place. The steps are a brilliant white marl formation that juts into the sea. The name comes partly from the terraced shape of the formation, and partly because it was used as a harbor by Arab pirates.
What a spectacular place to view the sunset! We were there for an hour or so along with a number of others, taking photo after photo. This must be one of the best sunset experiences of our life. There's a video clip Rachael filmed with her phone of me gingerly edging around a tight corner.
Leaving our lodging in Sciacca, the Porte di Mare B&B. It does feel like we've been doing an excessive amount of pushing and lifting of the bikes so far on this tour.
Rachael has been trying to have me take a shot of this colorful vetch for days, but I've always been too far off for her to get my attention when she's seen it. Finally everything comes together.
