June 23, 2009
Sognefjellsvegen
Awake at 8, I have my usual yogurt and check my email in the campsite's reception area, then visit the tourist office where I get told there's an alternative - better - route to ride my bike on; 60km over the mountains to a fjord, heading towards little Luster. He says the the route is regarded (and he quotes the UK's Guardian newspaper) as being one of the best bicycle rides in the whole wide world.
Sognefjellsvegen. Never heard of it.
He says it incorporates the highest section of tarmac in mountainous Norway. The route veers through a majestic national park. It's all fantastic. Sold.
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I kiss goodbye to Route 15 (63) after a nice coffee and cake enjoyed al fresco in the sunshine and pedal along Route 55. After 20km I come to a roadside Youth Hostel that I didn't know existed - wish I had, as I'd have come here last night. More coffee. The host tells me there's still 60km to go to the sea. Strange.
It's hot and sunny and the climbing is slow but steady. It gradually gets cloudy and after 50km I stop at a campsite called Bøverdalen. The owner tells me it's still another 10km and about 500m higher to the pass, so I opt to stay here.
My hut is super with fluffy pillows and costs 350 krone. They have wi-fi and give me a second helping of dinner; the host and his wife are great cooks and super friendly; she urges me to eat up. I treat myself to a second beer.
This is Mid-summer's Eve and they later light a traditional bonfire, which the handful of other guests gather round in silence. It seems very Pagan, especially in this wonderfully remote area; a long lake lining the glacial valley floor that drops away from the dancing flames.
Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 782 km (486 miles)
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